Four countries, 3,600 miles plus getting there and back in a week – sounds impossible? With a good planning – it was very much doable.
- Planning
- Getting There
- Armenia: Yerevan – Ararat – Garni – Geghard
- Armenia: Sevan – Dilijan – Sanahin – Haghpat – Georgian border – Tbilisi
- Georgia: Tbilisi – Mtskheta – Jvari
- Georgia: Military Georgian Road to Kazbegi and Ananuri
- Georgia – Azerbaijan: Road to Baku
- Azerbaijan: Baku
- Azerbaijan: Gobustan
- Uzbekistan: Getting there
- Uzbekistan: Khiva
- Uzbekistan: Bukhara
- Uzbekistan: Samarkand
- Getting back home and Summary
- Comments
Planning
The region is not on main communication roads and finding optimal transportation options is challenging, the regular links between places are limited or do not exist at all but private transportation is available and sometimes works better than public schedules.
From North America, there are only two direct options to the region – Azerbaijan Airlines JFK to Baku on Mondays and Saturdays, and Uzbekistan Airways Tashkent to JFK on Thursdays and Sundays. With one-stop connection, there are daily Aeroflot (Sky team) flights via Moscow to all of these countries, Qatar (Oneworld) via Doha to Yerevan, Tbilisi and Baku but not Tashkent, LOT Polish (Star Alliance) to Yerevan and Tbilisi but not Baku or Tashkent, and Turkish Airways (Star Alliance) to Baku , Tbilisi and Tashkent but not Yerevan. We wanted to start in Yerevan and end in Tashkent and booked two-stop flights here and back: New York – London –Moscow (British Airways business) – Yerevan (Aeroflot economy), and Tashkent –Moscow (Uzbekistan Airways economy) – London – New York (British Airways business). Even with extra connections and airport changes in Moscow it worked for us better both in terms of a schedule and budget.
The next challenge was planning the journey route. In Armenia, we wanted to see Temple of Garni and Geghard in the south and Sanahin and Haghpat in the opposite north. Did I mention we planned only one day in Armenia? To our luck, these places are well connected by the main road that continues on to Tbilisi – our next destination.
We planned two days in Georgia, to base in Tbilisi and explore the city, visit nearby Mtskheta and Jvari, and make a day trip north via Georgian Military Roadto Kazbegi at the high of the Caucuses mountains.
To get to the next destination –Baku we could take a flight departing at 2:00 am and arriving at 3:00 am. Crazy times! As an alternative an overnight train departs Tbilisi at 8:35 pm and arrives Baku at 9:00 am next morning. Should we spend 12 hours on a train – or a sleepless night at airports? – we choose the train option.
For Baku, we allocated two days and one night. To see the city on the first day and to explore outside on the second. There are sights to see in Azerbaijan besides Baku but almost all require multiple days to visit. On the second day, we planned to see Gobustan – an early life monument and only day trip-option from Baku.
There are twice a week direct flight from Baku to Tashkent and a schedule fit our plan. Upon arrival at Tashkent, we planned to fly on to Urgench, start the Uzbekistan part of the journey from Khiva and continue on to Bukhara (by train) and Samarkand (there was an express train but a schedule was not good so we arranged a car transfer). We allocated half a day for each city. In the end, we would return to Tashkent and fly back home the next morning.
Booking tickets and accommodations was then ext stage. All air travel including an exotic Uzbekistan Airways was booked online as well as Uzbek trains. Tbilisi to Baku train could not be booked online so we used the help of our Georgian host. Yerevan to Tbilisi and Bukhara to Samarkand were parts of pre-arranged private tours. All capitals had western brand hotels, we choose Hyatt Place in Yerevan, Radisson in Tbilisi, Hilton in Baku and Hyatt Regency in Tashkent. Smaller town accommodation options (Khiva, Bukhara) were limited to bed and breakfasts (more on them later) however, they are bookable online via sites like Booking, Hotels, Expedia etc.
The final important point – visas; not required for US citizens to enter Armenia and Georgia, required for Azerbaijan (easily obtained online), technically required for Uzbekistan but you may enter visa-free for a stay up to 5 days (adequate time to see all major sites) and have a ticket and a visa (if required) to a third country (we used that option). Russian transit or regular visa is required if you change airports in Moscow.
Getting There
British Airways New York Newark to London Heathrow in business class is a well-traveled route, there are many references so skipping the details. Boeing 767 flight was as expected and arrived on time. British Airways London Heathrow to Moscow Domodedovo was Dreamliner Boeing 787 with fully flat beds – a rarity for intra-Europe flights but since London to Moscow fly time was just over 3 hours it qualified as a long haul. It was a usual British Airways Club Word service in a half-empty business class cabin and a timely arrival to Moscow Domodedovo.
Moscow has 4(!) airports located far from each other and from the city. Don’t ask why – we have no idea. Aeroflot flight to Yerevan departed from Moscow Sheremetyevo which was 60 miles drive in always heavy Moscow traffic, so we planned a 6-hour layover to ensure a timely transfer. Passing the Russian border and customs always takes long but it was reasonable this time. A taxi booth in an arrival hall asked $70 for a ride, which we found expensive. Getting Uber at Moscow airports is not straightforward but the fare would be just around $20 so it was worth the hassle. “Unofficial” cabs are not allowed to come directly to terminals; you need to go past the hectic arrival area to a parking lot to search for your car. Luckily we got some assistance and within minutes were on our way to Sheremetyevo. The ride was long – over 2 hours on a dull ring highway, but when we finally arrived at Sheremetyevo it was still plenty of time before our Yerevan flight.
We were in an economy class so Priority Pass was our only lounge option. The terminal had 5 lounges, two of them in an international zone. We choose Gallery lounge, a large two-level space was busy on Saturday night but people came and went and in a short while we found a comfortable and quiet place to relax and have something to eat. The food offering was substantial – salads, hot and cold appetizers, choice of soups and entrees. There were several espresso machines and assorted sweets and soft drinks. Liquor was not offered in Russian airport lounges but there were wines and beers. The layover time passed fast and we headed to the flight. The departure gate turned out to be on the opposite side of the terminal so by the time we get there the most of the passengers already boarded.
The aircraft was Airbus 320 with a usual 3 by 3 seat configuration in the main cabin. Aeroflot has an online check-in and seat selection but forget getting an emergency row seat if you are non-elite or traveling on the cheapest fare. We stuck in regular seats in the middle of a plane, however, the flight was short (2 hours 15 minutes) and the legroom was decent. The aircraft was new and clean but there was no IFE at all and the food was a cold bologna sandwich and a soft drink.
We arrived at Yerevan on schedule at past midnight and then had to get luggage and clear customs. Before arrival, I emailed Yerevan Hyatt Place asking to send a car and got confirmation within minutes. A driver was waiting at the arrival hall. The service was $16 (just slightly higher than a taxi fare) and went on a room charge. Check-in was swift, a receptionist was waiting for us and had keys prepared. Finally, around 2 am we were in our room to get a well-deserved rest.
Armenia: Yerevan – Ararat – Garni – Geghard
There are two western class hotels in Yerevan city center near Republic Square – Marriott and Hyatt Place. For one night stay, we choose Hyatt as newly built while Marriott was refurbished from an old Soviet-era hotel. As I mentioned we stayed at Hyatt and our experience was good – a room was spacious and clean, Wi-Fi adequate, a bed comfortable and a free breakfast substantial, tasty and with a decent variety. We had big plans and started early. A guide and a driver has waited for us in a lobby and we were on our way at 8:30 am. First, we had a short drive through Yerevan center. Yerevan is 2000 years old but its contemporary center was built in 1920-30s by the architect Alexander Tamanian, the unique Armenian pink basalt created a city special look, especially impressive was Armenia Opera House. Yerevan is not large and shortly we were outside on a road to Garni. The first stop was Ararat mountain viewpoint.
The holy landmark for Armenians is actually in nowadays Turkey, the point is the closest you can get from Armenia side and is only 30 miles away. It was sunny and clear and the visibility was perfect.
About half an hour later we arrived at Garni – an impressive and well-preserved pagan temple, I believe the only site of that era in the Caucasus.
Besides the temple here were remains of ancient baths and some picturesque ruins.
Our next stop was Geghard Monastery. The complex of churches and tombs carved out of cliffs is UNESCO Heritage site. Armenia was the first country on Earth to adopt Christianity in 4 century AD – long before Rome, its churches are absolutely unique – impressive outside and very ascetic inside, no icons, no paintings, almost no ornaments.
We watched a service accompanied by a choir singing, walked around to see beautiful views and went on.
By the way, Geghard was named after a spear that stabbed Jesus, that spear was initially kept there but now is in Echmiadzin – a cathedral monastery and a residence of a Catholicos (Armenian Pope).
Armenia: Sevan – Dilijan – Sanahin – Haghpat – Georgian border – Tbilisi
It took three hours to cross Armenia to our next destination. Talking to a guide and a driver we learned a lot about Armenia past and present. Geopolitics is not on their side. Armenia is landlocked and of four countries it borders one (Azerbaijan) is at war with, another(Turkey) is a nemesis due to a century- old genocide, Iran has an open border but not much to offer due to international sanctions, that leaves Georgia to be the only link to the rest of the world. The main trade partner and economic supporter are Russia, but it patronage never comes for free as many of the country main assets are controlled by Kremlin businesses. Nevertheless, people keep hope- the”Velvet” Revolution in Spring 2018 brought to power a democracy- minded prime minister. The man is smart enough not to alienate Russia – at least not at this moment and not openly, we will see how it all plays out but a potential conflict may be unavoidable.
We passed Tsaghkadzor– it was a sleepy backcountry village until late 1960’s when the Soviets were preparing for Mexico City Olympics. It turned out the place had exactly the same altitude and climate as the Mexican capital, and the Olympic training center was built there. USSR went on to score zillion medals, and the sports center stayed open first for elite Soviet athletes and later for everyone who would pay for room and board. Right now it is mostly a ski resort popular among Europeans in the know.
Then we saw a picturesque Lake Sevan – the country main water reservoir often called “sea” by locals and Dilijan – a nice green city. It was well into the afternoon when we reached Lori province. We were told a tale of two beautiful monasteries – Sanahin and Haghpat; one built by a father and another one by a son, each master tried to best a competitor who also was his direct blood. In fact “Sanahin” means “I am older than another one” and“Haghpat” simply means “Wow”. To me both were absolutely majestic – Gothic simple, ascetic and divine. Views were gorgeous in sunset light. The places are Armenia major monuments but actually not easy to be located. Even our local driver with GPS took few wrong turns before getting there. To the best – fewer tourists, in fact, it was almost our own to explore.
In the nearby village of Sanahin, there was a small but very interesting Mikoyan Brothers Museum – a place to see for history buffs and/or aviation aficionados. In this little-known village on the edge of the 1900s two brothers were born to be instrumental if not crucial to Russia and world history. The older brother – Anastas went on to become the “Stalin’s fixer”. In fact, he served all Soviet leaders from Lenin to Brezhnev. Each critical moment for the regime – it was Anastas to the rescue, and yes he did. In the 1920’s huge industrialization effort when millions of new laborers needed to be feed and accommodated – he went to the USA to acquire technologies for mass and fast food production; during the WWII he negotiated lend-lease with the allies; after Stalin’s death he managed a swift Gulag liquidation and facilitated survivors return; and it was him who negotiated the Caribbean Crisis compromise from the Soviet side. Yes, a Bolshevik from head to toe he was a smart, honest, resourceful and extremely productive person that made him an ultimate survivor. He also published a cookbook still popular among kitchen fans (available at Amazon). His younger brother Artem was no less talented though quite an opposite personality. Not interested in politics he went on to become an aviation constructor. Together with Mikhail Gurevich, he invented MiG fighter jets – considered to be one of the best and still a backbone of aviation forces of Russian and other armies. An example of their most successful model –MiG-21 is on display at the museum entrance.
Our sightseeing program in Armenia was over – right in time for sunset. We were on the main road to Tbilisi. The border crossing took minutes although we had to stop at a broker booth to get Georgian car insurance.
The last couple of hours to Tbilisi were not remarkable. It was dark outside; a road was in a better condition than in Armenia but still not an autobahn. At 9 pm we finally reached Radisson Blue Iveria, thanked our driver and guide and wished them a smooth way back (feeling bad for them as they had another 5 hours to get home)
Georgia: Tbilisi – Mtskheta – Jvari
Radisson Blue Iveria has a past. Originally called just hotel Iveria it was built during the Soviet times for high positioned western visitors happen to come here. Since then the place hosted refugees from Abkhazia war in the 1990s, then was acquired by Radisson company and completely rebuilt. This was not the glitziest hotel in town – The Biltmore shined just a few blocks down Shota Rustaveli Avenue followed by Marriott, but the location was great (The Rose Revolution Square) and the price was right. We got upgraded to a luxury room on a higher floor and got a free breakfast. The room was very nice indeed – with a semi-separated sleeping and sitting areas and a spacious bathroom.
After a long day in Armenia, we would not mind a dinner but did not want to go far and ask a concierge for suggestions. We were recommended a seafood restaurant just across a street with a peculiar name “Andropov’s Ears“. The restaurant was almost empty – a common scene in off-season Tbilisi where a dinner that cost more than $20 considered to be a luxury, but the service was good and the food was delicious. Mushroom soup and a sea brim were particularly outstanding. As a hotel guest, we got a 10% discount and a free drink which made our experience even better.
Next morning was bright and shining, and with a view of the Kura river and the city skyline we loved our room even better.
Our first destination in Georgia was Mtskheta which was a short drive from Tbilisi. If Armenia was the first country to accept Christianity, Georgia was the second. The story tells St.Nino traveled to this place from Jerusalem in the 4th century to spread Jesus message and enlightened a local king. He built a church that later became a cathedral and established a capital here. The place was magnificent though a bit touristy. The 11thcentury cathedral was impressive, we spent quite some time there and noticed how different the Georgian Orthodox style was from Armenian Apostolic.
Then we drove to nearby Jvari. There was another monastery there – even older than Mtskheta (6th century), but the main attraction was the view of the confluence of the rivers Mtkvari (Kura) and Aragvi.
We returned in the early afternoon and dedicated the rest of the day to explore the Old Tbilisi. The small but lovely area between the river and Mtatsminda mountain was neglected just a decade ago but then greatly restored. The best is just to walk there without any particular agenda and absorb the unique city spirit. We weren’t along thou– the area was touristy, the numerous restaurants loudly solicited customers as well as souvenir shops and kitsch art peddlers, yet it was an enjoyable experience, also it was just a short and pleasant walk from our hotel.
That evening we dined at Meama restaurant in the old town – by far the best meal in Georgia and probably of a whole trip. Khachapuri, shish kebab, and churchkhela based dessert were particularly delicious. We also enjoyed a local Tsinandali wine.
Georgia: Military Georgian Road to Kazbegi and Ananuri
Next day was a trip up north to the heart of Caucasus mountains. The ancient passage links Tbilisi with Vladikavkaz in Russia and is the most scenic road in the country. However, it’s a stern journey and to my opinion only worth it when the weather is good. The route was established in 1799 and even though “enhanced” several times was still one narrow lane in each direction and not a highway. Our plan B was a tour of Kakheti – the country main wine producing region. A wine tasting is a good idea in any weather but to really explore a region takes at least two days and an overnight stay at a winery guesthouse. That morning the sun was bright and the sky was blue so Kazbegi it was. The first major sight on a road was Ananuri fortress and monastery about an hour from Tbilisi but we saw a lot of tour buses and skipped it deciding to stop on a way back.
In another half an hour we reached Gudauri – the country main ski resort. The place was a big construction zone – trucks, gravel, sand, dust, and noise, obviously it was preparing for the coming season and we were told that it was actually much nicer when winter settles. Past Gudauri the road reached its highest point and the views were the most breathtaking.
We stopped at the Friendship Arc – a Soviet era monument and an excellent view point.
In another hour we were in the town of Stepantsminda –our final destination. From there it was only 9 miles to the Russian border. The town itself was nothing special, just a base for various hiking trails and mountain explorations. The most popular hike was to the Holy Trinity Church on the right bank of the river Chkheri, at an elevation of 2170 meters, under Mount Kazbegi. An alternative to 1.5 hours was a 20-minute jeep ride. The road was so bad we needed to hire a local four-wheel truck to drive there. We saw a “normal” road that for some reason was closed to traffic. We were also told that a cable car from the village to the monastery ran but was destroyed in the 1990s. We figured that delivering tourists to the top church was probably the only source of income for locals so did not anticipate a roadway to open or a cable car rebuilt any time soon.
The church was pretty and the views of Kazbegi were astonishing. We spent about half an hour there and then descended to the village to start our return.
In about two hours we were back to Ananuri – no crowd this time. The castle overlooking Aragvi river was built in the 13th century and hosted local dukes until the whole clan was massacred. The place, however, looks quite tranquil now as the complex perches along the river turquoise waters.
We were back to Tbilisi in time for a no-rush final Georgian dinner. The restaurant was Ethno Tsiskvili (the Old Mill). It was located about 15 min off Tbilisi center. It is very popular with locals for its cuisine, interiors, and live music so it is a good idea to call ahead to reserve a table. However, at the time of our visit it was not busy at all. We ordered dolma for an appetizer and kebab for the main course. The dessert was a churchkhela tart. The wine this time was a local red Mukuzani.
We arrived at Tbilisi train station 30 min before Baku express departure. The station was more like a shopping mall, in fact, it was mostly a shopping mall with a small sign directing to platforms. Information and a ticket office was on the second floor.
Soon the boarding started – there was no security check, you only needed to show a passport and a ticket to get in. We settled in our compartment, the train departed on schedule, we were on our way to the next destination – Baku.
Georgia – Azerbaijan: Road to Baku
We booked a deluxe train accommodation which meant a private sleeper compartment for two people.
Our carriage was N 19 which we found odd as a train had only 9 cars but were told that an additional carriage was added due to high demand. The carriage was old, in operation since 1990s, but was clean and functional. There were two regular toilets at each end of a carriage and a “samovar” with boiled water available through the whole journey.
A compartment had mattresses and pillows and we got linens sealed in plastic bags soon after a departure at no extra charge – the cost was included in the ticket price.
Speaking of a price – the sleeper deluxe accommodation was around $30 per person and it was completely booked. If you plan to take this route I suggest booking in advance. The carriage next to us had 4-bed compartments and was completely empty. I assume it cost twice less.
The train did not have a restaurant. We did not think we would need food on a night train but we saw other passengers stuck up. We did not know that a train was often late and instead of 9 am could arrive close to noon. You could get stuff to eat at Tbilisi station/shopping mall food court before boarding. If you missed that – no worries. Soon after departure, the train stopped for an hour at Georgian border, the station had a small convenience store that had water, soda, and snacks. An attendant could bring tea but only when asked – a service was minimal.
At Georgian border, a patrol collected passports, stamped them and quickly returned back. We moved to Azerbaijan. Their control was a totally different experience. The passports were collected again, then passengers one by one were summoned to the end of the carriage for a border official interrogation and photo taking. Marina passed first – an officer took her picture, then barely looked at the passport, stamped it and waived out. The next was me – he looked at my passport more thoroughly and noticed Armenia stamp. Damn! Although no active fighting takes place now, Armenia and Azerbaijan are still technically at war. Armenia occupies a part of Azerbaijan territory called Karabakh. This is an old and painful conflict with both sides having claims to the disputed territory, and if your opinion is asked the best is not to take sides. Karabakh could be easily visited from Armenia but you would be banned to enter Azerbaijan if you do that. On the other hand, as it was stated on Azerbaijan visa site, you would not be disallowed if you just stayed within undisputed Armenia territory. We were nowhere near Karabakh but how could we prove that? “Karabakh?” – asked an officer and gave me a heavy look.”No!” – I answered as firm as possible, he starred at my passport a bit longer than stamped it and waived out.
We sighed with a relieve and returned to our compartment but that was not the end. Customs came next. Our luggage was searched, nothing inappropriate was found and they swiftly moved on. The control was finally done. When we moved off the border it was a reasonable quarter past midnight and around 8 hours of sleep before arriving in Baku.
Azerbaijan: Baku
Around 8 am an attendant knocked our compartment door to wake us up and collect linens even though as per a fellow passenger who was a local there was still about two hours to a destination. A train was an hour late. We spent the rest of the journey on bare mattresses drinking tea and wishing we could have some food for breakfast. It was well past 10 am when we finally arrived at Baku train station.
We were looking for a money exchange and a taxi to a hotel. A station plaza was kind of mafia scene: an exchange office was closed and was no sign of a taxi stand. We asked a policeman and he nodded to a group of shady dudes lurking from around a corner. Sensing customers they approached us right away. In minutes a shady dude N 1 exchanged money and a shady dude N 2 offered a ride to a hotel for $3. A cautionary note – we later learned that a street money exchange was illegal and could get you in trouble. We got away with that but my advice is – get some Azerbaijan manats at Tbilisi station. In Baku all major hotels have an exchange service, you can also get local money at a bank or use an ATM machine. Note however, – some establishments cannot accept credit cards from USA.
Our hotel was Hilton Baku, a short distance from a station. The service at reception was superb. I notified a concierge in advance we would be arriving early. As soon as we stepped into a lobby we were greeted by names and told that our room was ready. We were on a high floor with a view on Caspian sea promenade and a large square probably used for national parades with a swanky Absheron Marriott on the opposite side.
We refreshed quickly and went on the town. Our destination was an old city and its trademark –Maiden Tower which was about 20 min walk from the hotel.
Baku city center was nice but not that lively as Tbilisi. It felt like Baku had more space than people to fill it.
The Old city had more live especially later in the afternoon.
Baku was greatly rebuilt recently and the city seemed like a strange but delightful mix of Dubai and Paris. An oil boom facilitated a transformation –high rise hotels and offices were erected and old buildings’ facades obtained a neoclassic look. The Maiden tower and the ShirvanshahPalace – the old town main historical attractions and other buildings were restored. In fact, the town was so cleaned and polished that made it a bit”too new” to our taste.
On paper,Azerbaijan is a presidential democracy. A father claimed the power when the country became independent, a son inherited it and is a president now, a son’s son just finished a college, is doingmilitary service and assumed to be a president in waiting. The president’s wife and daughter are the patrons of art, culture, and architecture. Having unrestricted financial possibilities and to be fair not a bad taste, they were in charge of creating the capital’s new grandeur look. It strikes with contrasts, new constructions are visible from everywhere but do not overwhelm a compact old city. The famed Flame Towers (architected by Hellmuth, Obata, and Kassabaum) is the city dominants and host the richest of the rich including Lamborghini dealership and Fairmont hotel. Another Baku’s architecture jewel is Heydar Aliyev (a father) Center designed by Zaha Hadid (we visited it next day and more on it later).
Walking the cute narrow streets of the old city and posh boulevards of the new district took us the most part of the day. We finished our urban exploration and were ready for dinner. If you like caviar– Baku is the place to indulge. You find a high-quality product not cheap but at a fraction of a price, you would pay in Europe or the States. We dined at Qazmaq which billed itself as the best caviar restaurant in the city. I do not know if it was indeed “the” best but we enjoyed caviar and assorted sturgeon plates for the main course. A dessert was pakhlava and tea with a chestnut jam.
Azerbaijan: Gobustan
Next day was Azerbaijan outside of Baku. The best option for a day trip was Gobustan – a national park and UNESCO preserve featuring stone age and prehistoric times petroglyphs. I did not arrange a tour in advance as I was not sure if we would want to drive there or rather spend more time in the city. We felt like we saw enough of Baku and with the efficient help of a hotel concierge booked a car with a driver on a spot. It was a short 40 miles drive on a good road. We were passing an almost surreal sight of sea beaches and vacation houses on one side of the way and still operating oil rigs right across. The landscape was semi-desert and the weather was a bit gloomy that made the scenery even more dramatic.
Past the city limits along the highway we saw modest if not poor looking villages and grandeur palaces of the new rich that would rival Taj Mahal.
In about an hour we arrived at Gobustan entrance.
The site was absolutely amazing and worth a visit even if you were not into prehistoric stone carvings. First, we stopped at an interactive museum that described the Stone Age life, how the petroglyphs were discovered here in 1930s, and how the site evolved into a world-caliber monument. The exposition was nice but we would rather see a real thing. A private tour was included in a ticket price and a guide was waiting for us at the museum exit. We drove further into the park to the rock formations and had about 45 min walk to see various carvings.
The landscape was magnificent – a high plateau with a view of Caspian sea shore on a horizon.
A visit to the place could be expanded to watch mud volcanoes erupting or rather bubbling nearby, but we decided to skip that and rather stop by Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center. As I mentioned it was designed by a late American – Persian architect Zaha Hadid and as many agree was her best work. The center was absolutely fantastic – curve shapes, black and white color decisions and totally asymmetric design made the construction look different from every angle.
However, like many other ambitious Baku buildings, it was half-empty inside. A concert hall had more-less regular schedule of performances, there were few exhibitions including Aliyev-father cars collection, and still, it had much more space to spare.
From the center, it was a short drive to the airport. Giving the grandeur of the Baku facade we expected the country main international airport to be in kind, and it was – spacious, clean and posh. It was not crowded and a check in for our Uzbekistan Airways flight to Tashkent took just a few minutes. At a border control, we once again were photographed but there was no interrogation this time. We settled in Salam lounge and appreciated it’s clever circular design – a service island in the middle rounded by cozy booths with chairs and tables.
The food and drink choice was ordinary but substantial for a light meal – sandwiches, some hot appetizers, sweets, soft drinks, and beers. Soon our flight was called. We were leaving Azerbaijan with mixed feelings. We were definitely impressed by the capital transformation but wondered if the resources had better use been invested in real wealth growth and people development projects.
Uzbekistan: Getting there
Uzbekistan Airways flies between Baku and Tashkent twice a week. Our plane was an old Boeing 757 that still had ashtrays in the seat arms.
At check-in we asked –and were granted exit row duo seats. The emergency briefing was a no-thrill video played on the cabin monitors. IFE was the last “Jumanji” flick with The Rock and Jonas kid. Oh dear. Soon after a takeoff (on schedule) a lunch was served – and that was surprisingly good and stupendous. I counted over 10 items – and that was before the main course!
The flight was little over 2 hours and arrived Tashkent on schedule, we unloaded via a ladder (no bridge) and were bused to an arrival zone.
Uzbekistan took major steps to become a tourist-friendly country. A Byzantine and costly visa process was replaced by a simple $20 fee online application. Moreover, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs website said that no visa was required for citizens of 100+ countries (all western countries were included) who would stay no longer than 5 days and have a ticket (and a visa if needed) to a third country. We had 4 days in Uzbekistan and a were flying out to Moscow so definitely qualified. To be absolutely sure I was searching the internet for anyone who already had that experience, but the procedure was relatively new and no references were posted yet. We were a bit worry approaching a border control without a visa stamp in our passports, but the officials were perfectly aware of the new rule. There was a little delay as the visa-free special stamp was suddenly nowhere to be found but after few phone calls it was located, passports stamped and we passed through.
Another major improvement – customs had a green corridor and there was no need to declare goods if it’s total value was less than $2000.
Moreover – there was a tourist office open at the arrival hall. We had over 3 hours layover to a flight to Urgench and decided to use the time to see Tashkent. A car and a driver was promptly arranged and we were on our way to the city. The airport was very close to the city center, and there was no traffic. The time was around 8 pm, it would be definitely better if it was daylight but it was our only opportunity to see the Uzbek capital. Luckily the major sites were lit – we stopped at Amir Timur Square, drove along Navoi boulevard to the Opera building, and saw the impressive White Mosque among other monuments.
Our driver was not a professional guide but nice enough to point to the major attractions and gave some commentaries. Tashkent was a sleepy and dusty town on the Silk Road until Bolsheviks moved the capital here from Samarkand in the 1920s to take advantage of its convenient location on the major crossroads. In 1966 a terrible earthquake almost completely destroyed the city. It was rebuilt to become a green, slick and very livable oasis of Central Asia with wide tree-lined boulevards, mighty fountains and modern buildings. The city is nice to live or do business in but offers a limited touristic value, and for ordinary visitors is mostly a transportation hub to get in and out.
The two-hour drive seemed adequate to get an overview and we returned to the airport. The security at Uzbekistan transportation objects is strict. We passed two checkpoints before getting inside a domestic terminal. Only passengers with tickets were allowed in so a departure area was not crowded. After a check in was regular airport security. The time was around midnight and it seemed to be the last flight out that day.
The only cafe at a waiting hall was closed at that late hour – I guess a keeper had a life too. Finally, the boarding started, the aircraft this time was a brand new Airbus 320, same emergency briefing video but no movie – not even Jumanji.
By the time we landed in Urgench, got to a terminal and collected our luggage it was almost 2 am. There was a lone taxi outside an exit, a driver asked $20 for a 30-minute ride to Khiva – 3 times a rip-off! We hesitated and he immediately moved on to solicit other customers. The scene was clearly a sellers’ market, facing a prospect to be left alone in a desert in the middle of a chilly night we jumped into his car and said: “OK, let’s go”.
In Khiva, we booked Caravan Sarai – a small bed and breakfast right in front of an old city entrance. We were extremely glad to see a host was waiting for us with a key to our room. Relax at last! The room was cozy and warm with two twin beds (a usual configuration in Uzbekistan provincial small hotels and BnB’s). Needless to say, we fall asleep in no time.
Uzbekistan: Khiva
The morning was bright and sunny and also cold. “Uzbekistan” and”cold” in the same sentence? Actually, below-freezing temperatures are typical here for the late fall and winter season. Lucky it was not windy and as the sun climbed up the sky it became a bit warmer. Our hotel was originally a girls madrasa (school). The internal yard had a small fountain and a seating area around it. The trees created a shade. The scholars’ cells were turned into the guest rooms. The yard was empty but we figured it would be a nice place to lounge in the summer
The hotel rooms and interior was tastefully decorated with antics and some traditional art that gave a feel of authenticity.
The breakfast was very basic though – tea, instant coffee, sandwiches, and some sweets.
We figured Uzbeks are big on tea but indifferent to coffee. You get a good tea everywhere even at a rest stop or a gas station but forget about an espresso or cappuccino. It is also normal to have tea while shopping and you are offered a cup even in small souvenir shops. We ate what we could, put on extra layers and went to explore the city.
As I’ve mentioned hotel was just across the square from the town gate. At the entrance to the old city – Itchan Kala, we were offered to buy a combined ticket good to visit all the attractions at a cost $12 per person. We skipped it. It was free to enter the city and walk around. The ” museums” that the ticket included were just more-less preserved old houses with some artifacts on display. We could always take a pick inside at the entrance. With the ticket though we could enter the beautiful Kalta minaret and climb the watchtower, but you can get a view ascending the town walls(free) or even from La Terrassa cafe rooftop veranda. Khiva was an astonishing Silk Road town – colorful, vivid and well preserved. It was easy to imagine caravans reaching this oasis after a long and difficult journey through the desert. It looked quite and peaceful but a history of a place was anything but. The mighty walls kept the town from the numerous nomads’ attacks. Until the 19th century, it also was a center of a slave trade.
Ithcan Kala was very compact – we easily explored it in half of a day. The only place we visited inside was Pakhlavan (wrestler) Mahmud mausoleum. Mahmud was a hero who lived in the 12th century – a strong, smart and witty personality who rescued his countrymen from Indian captivity. Not technically a mosque – it is a sacred place of worship for locals. In fact, an imam was doing a pray when we entered there. Men and women prayed together and were not bothered at all by tourists wandering around. Trying to be respectful we saw a beautiful decor, took pictures and moved out quietly.
We were done exploring the city by afternoon and had time for a lunch. Khiva food choices are limited with La Terrassa café is the only kinda stylish option. The food was mediocre but the view from the rooftop was gorgeous
. We returned to our hotel and arranged a taxi back to Urgench. The province capital is actually a very old city that experienced Genghis Khan conquers but now is a modern, industrial and residential. There are some archaeological sites nearby but otherwise, there is no point staying there. At the time of our visit, the railroad extension to Khiva was about to open. That would link all major Uzbekistan sightseeing centers. Until then Urgench is a transportation access point to Khiva.
Uzbekistan trains are bookable online but at an end of a transaction, you receive a confirmation that needs to be exchanged for an actual ticket at a ticket office. Since only passengers with tickets are allowed to a train station, a ticket office was outside. We stopped by to have them issued, got some water, and were told that there would be a restaurant car on a train.
It was usual two checkpoints before we get inside the station and about 40 minutes before the departure. The train however was already boarding and we proceeded to our carriage. The Uzbek train was similar to Azerbaijani, we also booked a deluxe compartment for two, the only difference we noticed was a TV but it did not work or we could not figure out how to turn it on.
Seven hours on a train through a desert was not actually as bad as it seemed. We saw an incredibly spectacular sunset in the sands, had some tea (it was unlimited and free), checked out a restaurant car but decided not to eat there. A waiter was regularly passing through offering drinks and snacks and could bring food from a menu if we wished so.
There was no cellular signal through the most part of the journey so we felt a bit detached. To kill time local passengers played cards, an attendant offered us a deck too but we passed.
About an hour till Bukhara a cellular signal re-appeared and we were glad to be back online. The train arrived almost on time. Bukhara train station was well outside a city center and we needed a cab. That time a market was on our side. Taxis’ supply was clearly larger than a demand, an asking $6 for a ride was easily bargained down to $4. We got to ou rhotel in less than 20 minutes. We booked hotel Kukuldosh that was recommended by our guide, it was also a boutique style BnB with two twin beds -not that authentic as in Khiva but larger and with a better service. The room was spacious, with a teapot, tea and different sweets on a table. Even though we had some sleep on a train we felt like resting and called it a day.
Uzbekistan: Bukhara
In the morning light we checked the view from the hotel room to the inner court which would be a nice place to have a meal if the weather was warm.
However at that time of the year a hotel breakfast was offered inside. It had much more variety and was personally served.
The weather was bright and sunny and not that cold as a day before. A guide and a driver were waiting for us in the lobby to start a tour. Centuries ago Khiva and Bukhara were two mighty rival emirates since then Khiva seemed to freeze in time while Bukhara was moving on. It’s a province capital, a diverse and vibrant city with a well preserved old center and modern quarters. Our hotel was perfectly located right across from Lyab-I Hauz – the historic town focal point. It is a pond surrounded by trees and the city finest madrassas.
We’ve heard a story of vizier Nadir Divan and an old Jewish widow who owned this land in the 16th century and refused to sell or give it in to accommodate the vizier’s grand real estate development projects. Eventually, she yielded to a pressure and moved but under a condition that a synagogue would be built nearby. The vizier kept his promise and built a synagogue. It is still there – just around a corner, and keeps among other unique relics a 2000-year-old Torah.
While the temple was in a reasonably good shape, the once vibrant Bukhara Jews community decreased from tens of thousands at the pick in the 1970s to mere 500 now as the majority emigrated to Israel and America.
We continued on to see a spectacular Kalyan Mosque and minaret and an impressive Ark fortress – emirs’ residence.
The colorful tiles of old Bukhara looked stunning in the bright morning sun – but we were told to wait what we would see in Samarkand.
A half a day is enough to see Bukhara highlights but to explore the city properly you’d better spend a full day there. We had to move on though. Bukhara and Samarkand are linked by a fast rail that makes a trip in less than two hours, but the schedule is odd. There was one early morning and one late afternoon departure and nothing in between. We opted for a car transfer. A highway was in OK shape, we drove down south, a desert changed to a more fertile landscape. It was mostly cotton fields, modest villages and one city – Navoiy (residential and unremarkable) en route. It took us a little less than three hours with one technical stop to reach Samarkand.
Uzbekistan: Samarkand
Splendid, magnificent, mysterious and story-telling – we left this Uzbekistan gem to be the last to explore and it indeed was the most impressive of the whole journey.
First, we stopped at Guri Amir – Tamerlane’s mausoleum. It is a grand burial place of a grand king who ruled with an iron fist but also with wit and brain. His real name was Timur; he injured his leg in childhood and therefore got the name Tamerlane – “lame Timur”. He is the most devoted hero in Uzbekistan (not so in neighboring lands that he once conquered).
This is the place where many locals pay respect and pray and an atmosphere is very special. Stalin was obsessed with Tamerlane personality and ordered an exhumation which took place on the eve of the German attack in June 1941. While the burial was open USSR suffered catastrophic losses but once the body was laid back to rest the tide turned and Russia rallied to defeat Nazis. Stalin also wanted to know how the king looked and ordered an archaeologist to recreate an image by a skull. The result of this tricky task was the Tamerlane portrait where he looked … very much like Stalin. An archeologist was clearly a clever man.
Our next stop was Registan – the heart of the ancient Samarkand. It is an ornamental public square flanked by 3 madrasas built in 15th – 17th centuries. The place was large and absolutely gorgeous. From outside – impressively monumental yet light, colorful and humble, from inside – beautifully decorated with mosaic tiles and golden ornaments.
We lost track of time wandering from a building to a building through countless rooms and halls. There were a lot of souvenir shops (you could find a good art there to bring home as a memory just do not forget to bargain). Climbing a minaret for a bird’s eye view is highly recommended.
If these two attractions were all of Samarkand it would be enough to make the city a tourism jewel – but it was just a start. To see it in full you need at least two days, but we were pressed in time and had to move on.
From Registan square, a trolley whisked us to Bibi-Khanym Mosque and a bazaar right across. Bibi was Tamerlane’s third wife (Khanum). Before leaving for a battle the king laid a stone for a future mosque. She cherished him so much that ordered and supervised a creation of this magnificent monument to be ready by Timur’s victorious return. A master who built the mosque wanted Bibi’s kiss as a prize for his work. He got his wish but the king found out about the mischief. He forgave Khanum but the master paid his life for it
.We could only see the mosque from outside and then walked across the square to the impressive Samarkand market. Even our guide preferred shopping there than in his home Bukhara. All fruits and vegetables are sold in its season so for an end of October it was mostly late grapes and persimmons on fresh produce stalls, but the variety of dried fruits was fantastic. We could not resist getting some dried apricots stuffed with walnuts – it tasted awesome.
We could have seen more of ancient Samarkand but the time was pressing, before the end our visit we wanted to take a look at 19th century part called the Russian city. Russia established its rule in Central Asia in the 1870’s; left the internal affairs to be handled by local emirs but denied them any foreign dealings. To supervise the new vassals the czar created the Turkestan Army and permanently posted it in Samarkand. The troops, however, did not wish to accommodate in the old city, instead, they built their own settlement just next to it. It was called the Russian city and looked very much like provincial towns in the mainland. Today the area is nicely restored and creates an interesting contrast of ancient oriental and classic Russian styles existing side by side. These parts of the city are linked by a wide tree-lined boulevard. A story tells that General Kaufman who conquered Samarkand for Russia was then appointed as the Governor. While he stationed here his daughter like all other young Russian aristocrats was hanging out in Paris. The general missed his daughter and asked her to visit but who in the world would leave Paris for Samarkand? To attract her the father commissioned building a boulevard in Champ-Elysee style so she would walk back and forth and feel like she was in France. I tried to find out if the family reunion actually happened (still do not know – if you know please tell me), but the boulevard is still there and still wide and green and definitely charming and pleasant especially in hot summer days.
From the Russian city, it was a short drive to the train station where our tour ended. After the usual two checkpoints, we stepped in a large and marbled station hall. Even though it was not crowded we had an option for just $1.20 extra to get an access to the VIP room. We took a look – it had lavish sofas but no food, so we decided to sit in a cafe. From Samarkand to Tashkent there is an excellent Afrosiyob super-express train that covers 300 miles in two hours. The train is very popular with the tourists and Uzbek businessmen so it sells out quickly. The online reservation open 45 days in advance, and even that early I was lucky to catch two last seats for my desirable 5:30 pm departure. The train was impressive – clean, slick and speedy, it was actually built by Spain’s Talgo fast train company. The train had all coach seats. Somehow we were in a business class; with the only difference from the rest of the train, we were given a hamburger and a soft drink.
There was also a first class that was served with a salad and a wine. The train had a cafeteria car. The train reached the maximum speed 260 km/hour but the ride was very smooth. We were in Tashkent at 7:30 pm. It was the first time through the whole journey when a train arrived exactly on schedule.
Hyatt Regency was very close from the train station. I did not hold a particularly high status with Hyatt but we were upgraded to a superior room and found a welcome gift – a bottle of a local wine.
We decided to have dinner at Khiva restaurant that was adjacent to the hotel. It served Uzbek traditional dishes and had good reviews.
We had tasty appetizers, a dolma, a “wedding” plov, some local wine and a dessert. The food was good even though I put Tbilisi dining far ahead.
Getting back home and Summary
The airport was close to the city so to make our 7:30 am departure we assumed 5:00 am check-in would be adequate. Tashkent international terminal scene was chaotic but I expected much worse. Checkpoints took minutes – at that time we were so trained passing them, it became a breeze. Most of Uzbekistan Airways flights depart in the morning for an obvious reason to come back the same day and save on turn around expenses, so the departure hall was crowded even though only ticketed passengers were allowed in. Only two counters were allocated for our Moscow flight but it was no line – a clerk informed us that most of the passengers checked in already. Our polite request for emergency row seats was not so politely declined, but we did get duo seats in a front of the main cabin which turned out to be comfortable enough.
We passed an airport security and a border control and a green corridor at customs. There was no lounge in a terminal so we went straight to the gate . A duty- free shop was pathetic – we did not even bother to browse; we also did not notice much of food options. Waiting for our flight were mostly Uzbek men going to Moscow where their gastarbeiter labor is in demand, but there were few foreigners as well. The boarding started on time, the only announced priority was for passengers traveling with small children, for the rest it was pretty much Hunger Games, we waited till all Uzbek men elbowed their way in and then proceeded freely. Tashkent airport was no-bridge but bus and ladder meaning we were packed in a shuttle bus that brought us to an aircraft then claimed stairs to a cabin.
Note however that nothing described above applies if you travel Uzbekistan Airways business class which would be a totally different experience. For business and elite passengers, there is a separate terminal (departure and arrival) with a separate check-in and security and a lounge where your luggage would be personally delivered. There is a private car transfer to board and unboard an aircraft. If your budget allows I definitely suggest booking business (fares are very reasonable).
The airplane was a middle-age extended Boeing-767, there were two ladders: in front (for business class passengers) and in the back (for an economy). We saw a front ladder empty as all premier flyers boarded already; while at a back door was another elbow flight to get to a cabin. We contemplated a maneuver to skip a crowd and board through a front door (and we would probably get away with it) but decided to stay where we belonged.
Finally, we were in our seats, the flight left on time and soon a stupendous meal was served. The hot dish choice was a plov or a chicken. Marina did not feel like eating at that early hour so I got both and must tell you – for an airline food it was pretty good. Wine and soft drinks were served on this flight.
The IFE in the main cabin was again one for all – a Russian movie about 1972 Olympic. That was the tragic event when the Israeli basketball team was taken hostage and then killed by Palestinian terrorists. The competition, however, was not canceled and went on and the USSR team beat the USA in the basketball final by 1 point. The Russians managed to make the movie 99% about their victory and barely mentioned the tragedy. Shame!
The flight took 4 hours and 15 minutes and was smooth. We arrived at Moscow Vnukovo airport few minutes ahead of schedule. We transferred to Domodedovo, checked in to British Airways flights to London and New York, settled in the lounge and had time to summarize our first impressions. Was the trip worth it? Absolutely! This was a magnificent journey through a very unique, historically rich and naturally beautiful land. However if you plan to go there the expectations need to be set right. This is not a destination for a big bus big group tour, the infrastructure is still developing especially outside of the capitals. The language barrier may exist if you do not speak Russian or a local language however young people in the cities are comfortable with English. The crime is very low and the genuine hospitality is superb. The countries however have uneasy relationships with each other so if you plan to go check the current political situation. We traveled in late October – beginning of November and were lucky with the weather but got some chilly mornings in Uzbekistan. We did not try and therefore could not describe any active outdoor adventures (hiking in the mountains, parasailing, climbing etc) but heard they are thrilling. We did not visit Georgia sea resorts but heard they are mediocre as even many locals prefer to spend they beach holidays elsewhere.
And the awards go to:
The best country to see overall – UZBEKISTAN.
The best food and culinary experience – GEORGIA.
The most authentic countryside– ARMENIA.
The best city – BAKU.
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