Fabulous, Mysterious, Vivid, Marvelous, and Over the Top Fun – you cannot get enough adjectives to describe this millennia-long tradition that survived all the miseries of the Continent history and still going unabated.
If six month earlier somebody told me that I am about to spend top dollars booking a trip, dressing into a 17th century costume and dancing French minuet in a palazzo hall I would think of it as the most preposterous idea I ever heard in my life, yet here I was walking the crowded streets, crossing the canals, taking pictures and getting photographed by strangers, and asking myself if this really happening.
It all began last summer. We wanted to celebrate a special friend a special birthday in a unique way. Incidentally, someone realized that the date coincided with the carnival week, the idea was born, and I started working on a plan.
The first decision to make was which ball to attend? The Carnival lasts for two weeks and culminates at midnight of Shrove Tuesday (Fat Tuesday or Mardi Gras). During that period many palazzos are hosting receptions ranging in admission price from 100 to 1000 Euros with the top party at the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) where just paying 2000 Euros a piece won’t get you in – you must be somebody to be a part of that crowd.
After an extensive search our group decided on the Ball at Palazzo Dandolo. The reviews suggested this was a foreign tourist’s friendly yet cozy and authentic place with a classical style entertainment, a limited number of attendee, and a delightful dinner. The tickets were offered via several online sites and had to be booked well in advance, the cost varied just slightly, the best deal we found was 485 Euros, and that was via an Italian agency that appeared to get a little break on prices.
A necessary clarification – Dandolo was a prominent Venetian family and had several palazzos, the most assuming is one that hosts Hotel Danieli (since the 14th century!) – the prestigious place to stay next to the Doge’s palace with the room rates starting at 500 Euros per night. The ball took place at another Palazzo Dandolo – the one adjacent to Hotel Monaco and situated less than a half- mile from Danieli on the other side of San Marco, on the Grand Canal.
So the ball venue had been decided and then came even more critical question of what to wear. Don’t hope on reusing your last year Halloween outfit – that would not cut it. The rules printed on the ticket stated that a period costume was mandatory. “For our convenience” the organizers offered a rental service ranging from 275 to 475 Euros per a costume per day plus a delivery fee 80 Euros. Yeah, it was not cheap to become a noble even for few hours! However, you don’t have to rent from them. If your talent is a baroque fashion that was your opportunity to shine. Some people in our group wore such great ensembles; it caused quite a furor among carnival watchers. The rest including me were fortunate that Amazon and eBay exist. Patience and diligence and at a fraction of the price I found cloth that made me look like a count or an earl at least from 20 feet distance. That was sufficient to pass a costume control, but be aware – most of the online stuff is made in China and shipped from there. Allow plenty of time for your order to arrive and mind that Chinese standard sizes do not correspond to Western, so you’d better send the exact measurements with your order. Finally an option for procrastinators – each big city has a theatrical costume store or studio that usually supplies performance companies, small scale shows, studying actors, etc and will gladly rent or sell a costume to anyone who needs it. Although the price would be higher than online, you see what you get, can alter if needed, and still pay less than on the spot.
Having the ball situation taken care of, I started planning an actual trip. During the carnival, Venice tons of visitors, but for a general transatlantic traffic it is actually a low season. That meant plenty of cost-efficient and convenient travel options were available. There are no off-season direct flights from North America to Venice, the closest direct flight airport is Milan. From there it is a smooth two and a half hours Frecciarossa train ride to Venice. I booked American Airlines non-stop New York JFK to Milan where we had some appointment to attend, then took an afternoon train to Venice St. Lucia station. On the return, we flew KLM flights from Venice to New York JFK via Amsterdam. Unlike London, Paris, or Frankfurt, main Dutch airport does not require to pass through security when going from Schengen to no-Schengen gates, you do pass Immigration, but there is a fast track for US and Canada citizens.
Our group split on accommodation. Most of us stayed at Danieli, one couple stayed at Bauer, three people at Al Teatro – a small B&B near Teatro La Fenice, and me and Marina at Hilton Molino Stucky on Giudecca island. Hope we will hear the reviews of other hotels, as of Hilton we liked it a lot.
Giudecca island is right across the canal from central Venice, it is a residential area within minutes from San Marco on a shuttle boat that the hotel frequently runs from 9am to midnight. The hotel can also be reached via a regular Vaporetto. The place is sparklingly new which is a rarity for this city, has a spa and a rooftop restaurant with an incredible view. Hilton Gold and Diamond members have a free full breakfast and access to an executive lounge with snacks and drinks that are available throughout a day. Interesting that there is no big Hilton sign on a building. The story tells that the corporation put an eye on the old mill and was eager to buy and rebuild it to have a property in this highly desirable tourist mecca. However, a stubborn owner refused to sell Americans no matter what price they offered. Then one day it was a fire… The owner finally agreed to sell but under one condition – the new place would keep his name. The deal was reached – the hotel was named Hilton Molino Stucky (Hilton at Stucky’s Mill), and if you booked a room here and wonder were the hotel is, when you see a big red brick building with the glowing sign “Molino Stucky” – you are at the right place. The check in was fast. As a diamond and a gold member, we got an upgrade to an executive room which was same as a standard room but located at the end of a hallway (less noise) and with a beautiful view.
One more benefit of staying here – an easy link to an airport. Alilaguna “Blue line” stop is right by the entrance door. The boat ride to the airport takes about 90 minutes, but it is a direct service and may be a better alternative to a pricy water taxi or a hassle of carrying a luggage 500 meters (and two bridges) to a Vaporetto stop, taking a boat to Piazzale Roma and then switching to an airport bus.
I also thought of what to do in Venice besides the ball. It was not our first visit to Venice, and we assumed (and were right) that San Marco will be crazy busy and crowded during the Carnival. We decided to skip visiting the cathedral and go off beaten paths. We booked a half day private boat tour of the lagoon, a visit to Scuola Grande di San Rocco to see Tintoretto works (and some Titian too), and an opera performance at La Fenice. Some of the group also planned to visit the Ghetto museum and the Doge’s Palace individually.
The eve of the ball our group got together at Taverna La Corte to celebrate our friend’s birthday. This is a traditional Venetian restaurant near San Marco but on a quiet side street with good food, a cozy atmosphere, and live Italian music – an excellent place to have dinner with friends or family.
At last the big day came. We started with a boat tour around the lagoon. It was sunny and relatively warm – ideal weather for a water excursion. Venetian lagoon is an incredibly interesting area with each island telling its own story. We passed Arsenal – a dock where once mighty Venetian fleet was built, Lazzaretto “Quarantine” – a grim reminder of black plagues that devastated the city in the middle ages, St. Michele Cemetery – among others the resting place of prominent Russians – Dyagilev, Stravinsky, and Brodsky.
Our first stop was Murano – a touristy yet visit worthy site where famous Venetian color glass is created (and sold at numerous souvenir shops).
Then we continued to Burano – the island is a real gem with colorful houses on the sides of small canals. While Arsenal, Murano, and other islands in the lagoon were restricted to visitors, the fishermen’s Burano was open and free-wheeling. Its playful spirit can be sensed until this day. It was a sunny Saturday, there were many tourists but not that much as in Venice.
The town is very compact, practically two streets, we walked one and then another and stopped by The Black Cat.` Our guide recommended it as the authentic Venetian cuisine restaurant, we only had a chance to have a coffee but the place certainly look appealing, and we wished we had more time to try a meal there.
The boat ride was relaxing, refreshing, and enlightening. We returned to San Marco in the early afternoon and had some time to prepare for the evening ritual. The ball was starting at 8pm. Our group gathered at Danieli lobby a few hours earlier to take pictures in dramatic sunset light. Then we ordered some drinks from the bar and took more pictures. Most of the people in the hotel wore costumes, some of them were fantastic, in fact outside the hotel door there was a paparazzi crowd with cameras taking pictures of everyone coming out, trying to get a great shot and maybe spot a celebrity.
The walk to the ball venue that otherwise would be short took us a while. The scene at San Marco became more festive, and while my modest costume was barely noticed some people in our group were rewarded for their creativity and caused quite a furor. After dozens of photo sessions on the way, we finally arrived at the palazzo. At the entrance I somehow expected a burly bouncer was checking strictly if your costume is a real “period” one, instead we were met but two lovely Italian ladies who quickly checked us against a guest list and suggested taking a walk around a lobby as the ball hall would be open in just a few minutes. The rest of the guests arrived, and in a short while we were invited in. The event started with a cocktail hour. We observed the fellow ball goers and noticed that only a minority wore their own costumes, most people opted to rent. Foreigners and Italians were about half and half and were a lot of young people. After “cocktails” (prosecco, juice, water and light snacks) we proceeded to the main hall. The orchestra played baroque music (and some Verdi too), there were opera singers and ballet dancers, and of course minuets with guests participation. The five-course dinner was superb, the wine was plenty and the whole atmosphere relaxed, joyous, and fun and not at all stiff and pompous as I might think of such an event before I was here. The fabulous time flew fast, at midnight we had to leave the ball – unlike Cinderella not to a stepmother closet but to our luxury hotel. It was a terrific night, definitely a lifelong memory.
The day after the ball we had a packed agenda. In the morning we paid a visit to Ghetto. The near Campo di San Marcuolo is actually my favorite place in Venice, it is close to Grand Canal yet not very crowded. Its cafes with tables right on the canal are perfect to have a morning cappuccino.
The afternoon and the evening were designated to explore the art and culture scene. Thanks to Inna we had a private tour of Scuola Grande di San Rocco with the best Tintoretto paintings. Cross the street, and around the corner, we visited Basilica dei Frari with the famous Titian’s Assunta (Resurrection).
To get a full impression it would be logical to see Accademia Gallery and especially Veronese’s “controversial” Last Supper aka The Feast in the House of Levi, but that part of the exhibition was closed for a renovation. We opted for a quick lunch before the day’s Grand Finale – the opera Italiana el Algeria in Teatro La Fenice. This temple of art has actually a checked if not to say a scandalous past. Not to get into details, there was a conflict between the city consul, the trustees, and the construction company. Then one day it was a fire… Never mind who got what at the end, the building was finally restored and open for music lovers. The interior is sparkling, the seats are comfortable, the acoustics is good no matter where you sit.
The production itself was delightful (the opera actually premiered in Venice in 1813). The non-traditional set and costumes, the hilarious and sometimes grotesque scenes yet the same Bellissima music by Gioacchino Rossini was nicely performed by the aspiring ensemble of an orchestra, singers, and chorus. After the opera, at the end of the intense day, excited and a bit exhausted we opted to dine at Vino Vino just because it was close to the opera house.
The next – and the last full day of our Carnival adventure we decided to spend outside of Venice. Some people, especially first-time visitors and those coming with the big groups and structured tours complain that crowds kill the city magic. In fact, Venice always was hassle and bustle, attracting all kinds from merchants to artists and from nobles to beggars. It’s not Venice became smaller, it’s the world grew larger. The savvy travelers know that just off the main touristy thoroughfares there are tranquil and intimate spots to be found and enjoyed.
It is true however that Venice is overloaded as it accepts a volume of tourists PER DAY that is twice larger than a number of its permanent residents. To relax and slow the pace a bit I chartered a bus, and we headed to Abano area spas. Less than an hour en route we stopped at charming Padua. Gone are the times when this city rivaled Venice in power, wealth and influence. To the best – compared to its more famous and crowded neighbor it was a reprieve to walk the neat and quieter streets of its old town. Padua was established by Romans, flourished in the Middle Ages and Renaissance as a home of a major university (second after Bologna), then fell to obscurity first under Venice and then under French and Austrian rule but resurrected as a modern and dynamic city after the Italy unification.
We met our guide at Prato Della Valle – a fountain square with imposing statues of mediocre popes and headed to San Antonio Basilica – the main city cathedral.
Then we continued via Rivera Tito Livia to see the ghetto, the university (still going strong), the city council building with the adjacent produce market, and the historic Pedrocchi café (read Stendhal’s “The Charterhouse of Parma”).
We ended the tour at Scrovegni Chapel with its unique Giotto frescoes. The paintings describe the story of Christ. The giant mural in the center is striking and spooky Last Judgment scene. It is all pretty much biblical propaganda, but it impresses with a divine realism, majestic colors, and an enormous size. Amazingly, it was created at the beginning of the 14th century – well before Michelangelo and Raphael. Needless to say, this ancient gem requires preservation and great care. The number and time of visits are strictly controlled – you need to get tickets in advance (online or call) to be one of 20 people for a 15 minutes slot to view the frescoes.
Before entering the Chapel, we waited in an airtight room to let dust settle, during that time a quite interesting movie was shown that described the Chapel story and the meaning of frescoes.
Abano was a short 20 minutes drive from Padua. The thermal springs with a healing power were discovered here by Romans who considered the place holly and built a temple here. Then (you guessed it) one day it was a fire… The springs were re-discovered in the 15th century, and a monastery was established, that at the end of the 19th century developed to a spa resort. Today Abano and a neighboring Montegrotto are popular vacation towns with dozens of terme hotels in a range from budget to luxury offering a wide choice of treatments and health programs at relatively modest prices. We chose to visit Tergesteo spa in Esplanade hotel in Montegrotto. This is a modern luxury spa and one of a few that welcomes day-trippers. The bath was new, clean, well decorated and designed. There were people, but many pools (indoor, outdoor, and ozone), Jacuzzis, power streams, and even underwater cycling machines occupied visitors, so it did not feel crowded. There were also a sauna, a steam room, and a café with healthy meal choices. We had a good relaxing time there – a well-deserved break at the end of our intense schedule.
We returned to Venice in the evening and had a farewell dinner at La Caravella. We chose the place because of good online reviews and were not disappointed. The restaurant is located very centrally on Calle Larga XXII Marzo that is a thoroughfare between San Marco and Rialto, but it does not feel touristy at all. It has a lovely ambiance, great décor, and excellent service. It coincides with Hotel Saturina and International and has a smaller separate dining room facing the street and another one (El Cortile) which is larger but inside the hotel past the lobby. We decided to have dinner in the latter and liked that. Our group sat in a private area and had two designated waiters. We pre-arranged the visit, and the four-course dinner menu was printed exclusively for us and placed for each guest on a beautifully decorated table (with candles). Each course had a choice; I had a raw seafood appetizer, a fish soup, an entrecote, and a tiramisu. The food was excellent and well paired with wines (a choice of red, white, or prosecco). It was a very classy dinner at a very classy place, highly recommended.
Next morning was a time to leave Venice. Alilaguna boat stopped right at the hotel door and headed to the airport. The ride was long but pleasant, and we considered it to be the last excursion on our trip. We sailed along Giudecca canal to take a goodbye look at San Marco then to Lido, Murano, Fondamenta Nuove, making several more stops in the lagoon before arriving at the airport. From the boat dock, it was about 15 min easy walk to a terminal. Venice airport was recently renovated; its refurbished departure hall was swanky, bright and clean.
With a little crowd (it was midweek) and a lot of helpful staff, we breezed through check-in and security and had plenty of time left to spend in Marco Polo lounge. It servers premium passengers of all airlines except Alitalia (there is a separate lounge for them) as well as Priority Pass holders. The lounge was good, spacious with a pleasant interior, comfortable sitting area and quite an adequate choice of food and drinks.
In a while our flight was called; it was a sad moment to leave, but also a moment to think about the next journey. I heard Rio has an incredible carnival too…
