The Middle East fascinates, invites and/but may intimidate if you pay too much attention to international news headlines. This is the cradle of civilizations, the conjunction point of cultures and religions, the Holy Land for the devotees, the lucrative hub for merchants and traders, and a crazy exciting place for history buffs. This is a land that you hesitated to visit beforehand but could not get enough of once you were there. Our 12 days trip to Egypt, Jordan, and Israel was intense, breathtaking, and eye-opening. I hope your experience was/is/will be as unforgettable as ours.
Planning and Getting there.
The political circumstances are impossible to avoid when planning a trip to the region. It was imperative for us to visit Israel, which meant that only other countries on a trip could be Egypt and Jordan. Only they have a peace agreement with Israel. Technically it could be possible to visit Israel’s other “unfriendly” neighbors – having two passports, or just not mentioning being in the Jewish state when entering an Arab country (Israel does not stamp your passport), but we decided to travel strictly by the rules.
We planned to start with a couple days in Cairo to visit pyramids then fly to Jordan. If you stay in Jordan for at least three nights you are eligible for Jordan pass, which is a significant saving on a visa fee and tourist site admissions. We planned one night at the Dead Sea, another night in Petra, and the last night at a Bedouin camp in Wadi Rum. Then we would cross to Israel at Eilat, spend a night there, and fly to Jerusalem. We planned to split time between the Jewish capitals ( two nights in Jerusalem and three nights in Tel Aviv) and also visit Haifa, Tzfat, and Kineret. We would fly back from Tel Aviv.
Cairo – Pyramids.
Arriving at Cairo airport meant waiting in lines first to get a visa stamp ($25 per person) then to immigration to get it stuck to your passport. Finally, we passed through the formalities, collected our luggage, and stepped into an arrival hall. I was not sure how taxis worked in Cairo airport and tried to book a private meet and transfer online. The site looked legit and sent a confirmation; however, when we arrived, the driver was nowhere to be found. The tourist information booth was no use as an attendant never heard of a company listed on a confirmation letter; however, he pointed us to a transfer stand where we had better luck. Soon enough, a driver was located, and we were in a car heading to our hotel. Conrad Cairo is prominently situated on the Nile river bank in the upscale part of the city clustered together with other Western brand hotels. We arrived late and were happy to see an empty hall and no line to the reception. We got our room quickly and gladly had a rest after a long trip.
Next morning started with breakfast at an executive lounge. The breakfast was a standard European buffet with some Middle Eastern choices and omelets made to order. The room, however, looked nice – large, clean, and with an outside area facing the Nile. After the meal, we went downstairs and met our guide, Ahmed Seddik.. Ahmed took a great deal promoting his services and ensured he was featured in every Egypt tour books. His fees are higher than other guides charge (although still very reasonable), but he has excellent references and solid credentials as the world best Egyptologist. Ahmed was a great choice and highly recommended if you are looking for a guide to Ancient Egypt sites. After a short introduction, we headed to our first stop – Saqqara, the pyramid valley. As we drove for about an hour farther from Cairo, the landscape became arid and dusty. The Nile river banks are fertile but just a few miles aside – and you find yourself in a full-blown desert. It is smart to go here early in the morning while the sun is not that mercilessly hot yet.
Saqqara is vast, overwhelming, and absolutely incredible. We started with its landmark Step Pyramid of Djoser and moved on to other burial monuments. Ahmed talked about numerous dynasties and pharaohs who left a mark here like it were his relatives, we tried to follow but only could recon Ramesses. We also learned that pyramids we erecting only during a relatively short period of Ancient Egypt history and the project was abandoned in the New Kingdom due to its total uselessness. The creation of noble burial sites however continued for much longer and that’s in our opinion, was the most exciting part of this place. We followed Ahmed in the incredible network of underground galleries and observed very well preserved paintings, scripts, mummies, reliefs, and statues.
As time went on, some of the treasures from the tombs ended up in European and American antique art collections, but much more stayed here (and some were returned). Watching it in the original surroundings was absolutely fantastic. I was glad I took a flashlight! We also learned some local customs. Although many sites are “officially” closed to the public and photography is not allowed, for just a few dollars a keeper would open the “forbidden” doors and not only turns a blind eye to you using your camera but even points you to a direction where to get the best shot.
Saqqara is enormous and not fully explored yet. We saw archeologists digging the grounds and finding artifacts after artifacts. Thanks to Ahmed’s efficiency and knowledge were able to see the significant sights and move on before the brutal afternoon sun heat. Per our guide advice we skipped Memphis that once was Egypt Kingdom capital but know just a dusty provincial town and headed to Giza to see the famous Great Pyramid. Our lunch break was in fast food shawarma joint. From hundreds of places in busy commercial Giza Ahmed knew the one that did not disappoint. Then we went to the pyramid complex entrance.
Unlike Saqqara, Giza is very touristy. Busy Steigenberger hotel by the gate is an excellent tactical point to recharge before the visit. The hotel restaurant has the best view of the pyramid, even if you don’t have a meal where you may step in and take photos. The road to and around is full of vendors, peddlers, and camel drivers that somewhat distracts from observing this giant structure. Also called the pyramid of Cheops, it is the oldest of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and the only one to remain mostly intact.
You can wait in line and get inside, but per Ahmed suggestion, we skipped it and walked around to see the rest of the complex. We passed the pavilion hosting the ancient boat. It was uncovered in 1950th and then painstakingly restored. We returned from the other side to see a temple and finished the tour by the Great Sphinx of Giza.
The late afternoon sun was perfect for good pictures, but we needed to elbow our way to the edge of the observation platform for an unobstructed view.
Our Egypt introduction was over, and we headed back to the hotel. Giza is practically Cairo’s suburb, but in the evening traffic, the return ride took us almost an hour. Needless to say, we were quite tired and decided to dine at a hotel. The Lebanese restaurant was good, and the prices were reasonable. The clients were us, one or two Middle Eastern businessmen and two British men, probable contractors at the bar. It appeared Egypt has everything for the world-class tourism – history, sights, infrastructure, it just needs more tourists.
Cairo – Old City.
For the second day in Cairo, we contemplated a visit to the Egyptian museum but again per Ahmed wise advice changed our plans and had the old Cairo walk instead. Although hosting the most extensive collection of Egypt art, the museum is more a warehouse than an exposition. It consistently lends to other museums, and it’s better to see its collections in comfortable Metropolitan in New York, Louvre in Paris, Pergamon in Berlin or British in London.
We checked out from the hotel and headed to the old city gates, which was 15 minutes Uber ride away. We passed through the “colonial” quarters built during the British domination in the 19th and 20th centuries. Cairo is a mix of totally different époques. That makes it so exciting to visit. Original Babylon was first the settlement of Coptic Christians that moved here from Byzantium then was occupied by Arabs in the 7th century and stayed Muslim ever since. We left our car (leaving the luggage behind) and entered the maze of the narrow streets that were almost empty in the morning hours. Ahmed assured that we will reunite with our suitcases after we walk through the old city.
The tour was no less enjoyable as the pyramid visit. Ahmed talked about Arab conquests and dynasties, freely naming numerous khalifs and vizirs that ruled the city as he did with pharaohs a day before. The old Cairo was lucky to be spared from significant destructions and stayed remarkably intact for centuries. We passed along mosques, madrasas, and sibyls, some of them as old as 13th Century and had a cup of strong and aromatic Egyptian coffee at a traditional café.
The focal point of the city is the Citadel. Saladin (the Crusaders’ nemesis) commissioned the building of the fortress in 1176, and the mighty fort on a hill dominates the city landscape ever since. Ahmed led us to the best view of Cairo Citadel from the beautiful Al Azhar Park – a true oasis in the middle of arid and hot city.
After we exited the park, Ahmed made a call, and sure enough, the car with our luggage appeared quickly. We headed to the airport, our short visit to Cairo came to an end. We had a great experience and wished we stayed longer as it was so much more to see there.
Jordan – Dead Sea.
The move from Egypt to Jordan started smoothly. Despite stops at security checkpoints on the way to Cairo airport, we had plenty of time before the flight. The Royal Jordanian Airways plane was clean and new, and the short flight was comfortable. Unlike on Egyptair flight to Cairo where alcohol was not served (you could bring and consume your own though), I noticed drinks were offered to First Class passengers. Upon arrival at Amman, we sailed through immigration. Since we had Jordan Passes, we avoided paying the hefty Jordan visa fees ($59 per person). The pass is the real peace of mind; $99 not only gets your Jordan entrance fee covered but also includes Petra ticket ($70), Crusaders’ castles ($5-$10) and many other attractions. The requirement for the pass is 3 nights stay minimum.
We picked up the luggage, exited to the arrival hall and looked for a driver. The driver again was “no show.” Searching the terminal and making phone calls did not help. We needed “Plan B.” I came to the tourist information booth and asked for advice. The attendant suggested taking a taxi. That actually was the right solution and worked for us fine. Our first destination was Crown Plaza Dead sea resort. Outside the terminal, there was a taxi stand with a board displaying fixed prices to all major destinations, so I did not even need to haggle. The ride from Amman to the Dead Sea was about an hour long. By the time we arrived, it was already dark. We settled in the room and had dinner at the resort restaurant. The ambiance was excellent as we had a table on an outside terrace overlooking a sea promenade. The food though was mediocre.
At the reception, we arranged another taxi to take us to Petra the next day in the afternoon. We spent the morning experiencing the Dead Sea. The resort had its own small private beach and plenty of mineral mud to cover and supposedly rejuvenate the bodies. The “water” was a consistency of glycerin, and you rather walk than swim in it. For the first time, it was fun; however, we would not spend more than a day there. By noon we were at the lobby ready to leave and see more Jordan.
Jordan – The Kings Road.
The Dead Sea is a little detour from a scenic way connecting Amman and Petra. The whole road is actually much longer continuing past Amman to Syria and Levant to the north and past Petra to the Red Sea and Sinai to the south. The Amman – Petra stretch is the most spectacular. We were lucky to have a driver who knew the area well and gladly pointed us to the most impressive sights as we drove by. The first part of the road was featuring the rose stone formations with many vistas for viewing and taking pictures. It is also very “biblical.” We passed the supposed Sodom and Gomorrah place.
According to the controversial biblical story, these cities were full of sin, and only the ruler Lot and his family remained righteous. Before sending terrible destruction there, God warned Lot’s family to evacuate but as they flee never look back. Lot’s wife, however, looked back and turned to a pillar of salt. We saw a rock formation in the shape of a woman body, so it believed to be a place of Sodom and Gomorrah. Wicked story! Mount Nebo (of Moses Ten Commandments fame) is also nearby as well as numerous remains of ancient Christian temples.
Then we moved on, and the scene became more “medieval.” History buffs would embrace the feel of Raynald of Châtillon and Baldwin IV of Jerusalem fighting here the Saladin army in the 12th century. To get in the know quickly watch the old but not bad Hollywood movie “The kingdom of Heaven.” “Game of Thrones” will do too. The name “Kings Road” originates from that époque as it was a castle after a castle on the way. To our days, only two stayed beyond the ruins. The most spectacular is Kerak castle, it is, however, a little detour from the main highway. If your time is limited, you may visit the “second best” Shoubak (Montreal) castle which is ideally on the way.
I do, however, strongly recommend visiting both. We wandered through the maze of the semi-ruined chambers, ventured inside the tunnels (bring a flashlight), and enjoyed the astonishing view from the castle hilltop to the valley below.
Shoubak was less than 30 min drive to Petra, the whole ride from the Dead Sea took around 5 hours. Our second night was at Marriott Petra that is situated on the high ground overlooking Wadi Musa. The hotel was nicely decorated in the traditional Jordanian style and busy with tourist groups coming and going. We arrived around 5 pm just in time for a lovely sunset view of the valley. The hotel, however, is far from the town and Petra entrance; by far I mean a 10 minutes cab ride. That is totally fine if you are there for a day to two, if you want to explore in depth and stay longer, you may consider hotels closer to the site.
Jordan – Petra by night.
Jordan’s main tourist attraction is open daily from 6am to 6pm (4 pm in the winter). Besides regular hours, Petra by night show is conducted several nights per week. I calculated our arrival to be on a day when the show was on and inquired at the hotel reception about the tickets. Although the show is popular, the tickets are always available. The price is $25 per person and is not included in Jordan pass. The clerk at the reception arranged the tickets and advised to arrive a bit earlier to ensure the better “seats.” He also arranged a driver to get around. The show started at 8:30pm, the car picked us up at 7:15pm. We decided to have dinner at the hotel before leaving. We ordered the Jordanian specialty – a milk sautéed lamb. It had a very smooth taste; it was good although I prefer meat to be spicier. We had a short rest and at a designated time were ready for our first Petra experience.
Following the advice from the travel forums, we took jackets, blankets, and a flashlight. The information was totally valid. The taxi dropped us off at the visitor center, the driver told to return at 10:30pm. From the entrance, it was a marvelous walk through the narrow gorge called Siq. The path was marked only by small illuminations, people were using phone lights to find the way, but the flashlight worked definitely better. At night it felt like a long walk, but Siq actual length was less than a mile.
Finally, we entered the main square in front of the famous façade that is featured in all tourist publications about Petra. It is called Treasury with absolutely no reason, but I guess this way it is easier for references. The Treasury square is just the beginning of the large site, but during the night show you do not go any further. Even though we arrived well before the performance start, it was a lot of people already. There were no “seats”; we had to accommodate on the ground – that’s how the blankets came handy. We were able to find a decent spot, settled down, and appreciated the hotel clerk advice to arrive earlier. People kept coming, and soon there was no space left on the ground to put a blanket. The latecomers had to stand during the whole duration. We lay on our backs and watched the stars until finally, the show started.
The anticipation was defiantly greater that the performance itself that consisted of 3-4 traditional songs and a short narrative speech via bad loudspeakers, so it was even unclear what language was used. The best part was at the end when the whole site first for a short time went totally dark, then was illuminated with different color lights synchronizing with the continuing traditional music. Everyone started taking pictures and videos, so for a good shot, we needed to catch a moment when none was flashing around. And then it was over. The light went off again, and we walked back the same path to the entrance where the driver was waiting for us. Marina and I still debate if this experience was worth $25 per person. I do recommend it. Yes, the ticket price was a rip-off; however, I think Petra impression would not be complete without it. Besides what else would you do there at night? The town has not much more to see.
Jordan – Petra by day.
We started the next day with a hearty breakfast at Marriott. The food offering was vast and delicious, featuring both the western and traditional dishes. We checked out and put our luggage in storage to be picked up on our way out. The driver was waiting for us at the lobby, and we headed once again to Petra visitor center this time to experience it in broad daylight. At the visitor center, we presented Jordan passes and were given entrance tickets at no charge.
The hectic scene at the site entrance featured arriving tour groups, freelancing guides offering services, donkeys, camels, ponies, etc. We wanted to explore Petra at our own pace, so we moved to pass it quickly and entered Siq again. We walked it last night, but during the day it was a totally different experience. The path through the gorge became more and more narrow, so the sunlight made its way through a smaller and small opening at the top until we entered the Treasury square again. At day this is a starting point for Petra exploration. It is very ambitious though doable to see all Petra in one day.
It will be a lot of walking in the hot sun. It also will be a lot of climbing to the mountain sideways sites off the main road. The good news there are several oases on your way where you can relax, cool down in the shade, have drinks, and even dip into a pond. You can also get a donkey, camel or pony ride but they only run along the main road. The only way to explore the sideways is to walk and climb.
Here we felt how diverse and history reach Jordan was. We saw Arab Amman, nature wander the Dead Sea, biblical Mount Nebo and Sodom and Gomorrah, medieval crusader castles and finally Petra, the magnificent pink city, the capital of the Nubian kingdom that peaked here in 300 BC and coalesced with the Roman époque.
Petra is vast but relatively easy to navigate. For just an overview, follow the main road from the Treasury passing the temples, noble dwelling, and sacrifice sites all the way to the monastery. Got amused, observing the beautiful facades and realizing there is not much beyond them. They lived in the caves and buried in the caves too.
If you plan to walk all the way and back it will take you the whole day. If you use the help of donkey camel or pony, you will do it faster and may have some time left to explore the marvelous sideways. We would spend a few days in Petra but needed to move to our next destination. We covered the halfway on the main road and did some climbing to sideway sites, then returned to the entrance and pinged our driver to bring us to Wadi Rum.
Jordan – Wadi Rum
An hour-long drive from Petra to Wadi Rum was mostly through a desert. It watched yet another face of Jordan – a Bedouin country. As a matter of fact, the tribe owns this land and manages visitors. To enter Wadi Rum, we first stopped at the entrance office and arranged for tickets. The fee was modest and covered by Jordan pass. Then we drove about 15 minutes to the village where local Bedouin hosts dispatched guests to their camps. The village was dusty, unattractive and looked poor but was the only center of civilization around. The host checked our reservation and boarded us to the truck. Another 15 min drive through the desert, and we finally arrived at our camp.
When searching online for accommodation in Wadi Rum, several options came up. All of them were camps in the desert and differed only by a level of comfort. The “luxury” and the most expensive choice was a yurt with private facilities and a plastic see-through ceiling to watch stars at night. We chose a modest option with shared facilities and only a small window to the sky. All camps, however, located close to each other in the most spectacular part of Rum with pink sand and stone formations. We settled in our yurt and then walked around. Besides the row of numbered tents, it had a facility building with toilets and showers and a dining hut where we were supposed to have dinner and then a local art show.
At first, the camp looked a bit empty since most of the guests were on the activities or has not arrived yet. Then gradually, people started gathering around the dining place. Right before dusk, we snapped a few great pictures of the sun lowering into the pink sand. More guests were coming and socializing waiting for a dinner call. Talking to a young German couple who stayed there for a few days and did all possible activities we learned we could have a grand camel tour of the desert and spend a night in a cave. They did – and found the yurt accommodation a super luxury in comparison. The crowd was mostly Europeans but some Americans too. There were quite a few families with children.
Finally, dinner was ready. It was an especially grilled chicken with vegetables, salads, hummus, and local sweets and tea. The meal was simple but tasty in the fresh air of a desert night. After dinner, the local Bedouins entertained the guests with folk songs and dances. It was fun, we watched for a while then retired to our yurt. In the middle of the night the call of nature woke us up, we dreaded of going out to the night desert to the facility building but managed it fine.
Next morning the camp reassembled for breakfast. The morning meal was modest – tea (no coffee), some pastries, boiled eggs. After breakfast, we had the overview tour of Wadi Rum. We shared the truck with another couple and went on a fantastic trip. At the daylight, the desert was in a different color yet still marvelous. We stopped at the gorge then at the dune that we climbed barefoot to get the fantastic view. It took an effort to get on top and fun to stroll down. Some people did it on sand boards. The next stop was at the oasis, where we had an opportunity for another climb. This time we would need to climb the rocks to get to a water spring described in some novel. We however passed on that opportunity and instead watched camels coming to drink water. Wadi Rum astonishing views and surreal landscapes attracted movie producers, and a high number of movies from Lawrence of Arabia to Martian were filmed here. Lawrence of Arabia himself had a house here, and we could see its remains if we took the grand tour. However, a few hours overview visiting the most exciting sights was good enough.
At the end of the visit, we found ourselves where we started yesterday at the host office in the Bedouin village. We settled our bill and were asked where we should be going. We needed to go to Israel border to cross to Eilat. The host made few inquiries and joined us in a taxi with two Swiss girls that were going to the same direction though had to get off at Jordanian Red Sea resort town Aqaba right before the border. We were splitting the fare so did not mind the company at all. In about an hour, a driver let us out at the border post. The Jordanian part of the journey ended. We were heading to Israel.
Israel – Eilat and the Red Sea
The Israeli – Jordanian border crossing looked sleepy. The time was noon, and the desert sun was at its high. First, we passed the Jordanian exit checkpoint. The guard watched some show on TV. He stamped our passports and waived away without even looking at us. We exited Jordan and walked (with the luggage) about 200 meters via no-man land to Israel side. There was no military ammunition visible but signs warned not to step out of a designated path, so we figured the area was under watch and probably mined. No other people were crossing the border in either direction. When we reached Israel, the first thing we were asked if we had been in East Africa.
We figured Ebola was a significant health risk at that time. Then we passed through a series of checking – our luggage was scanned then our passports then I think luggage again. The immigration officer asked if we were in Jordan that seemed to be an odd question since the only way we could get there was from Jordan. It was, however, a part of a well-thought security technique that Israeli perfected. It’s not your answers that matters, it’s the way you react to questions. You go through the same procedure at Israel airports. The overall time spent at the border, however, was minimal. Conveniently there was an exchange booth right by the exit. We change the Jordanian currency leftovers to Israel money that was right enough for a cab ride to the town. Planning the trip, I found Eilat accommodation rates outrageous. It was not a pick vacation season; however, hotels the city center asked $200-$300 per night. So glad Airbnb exists!
There was a good choice of private accommodation options. I chose a place called Villa Cousteau. The reviews were good, the location convenient. Most importantly, the owner introduced himself as a diving pro. We were interested in exploring the Red Sea underwater life, may be even diving, so we decided to stay there. The place was a villa indeed, with a pool, few rooms offered for rent, two shared bathrooms and a shared kitchen and a dining room. Our room was rather small, but we stayed only one night, so it was ok. Soon we met some of the fellow guests who were here for more extended stays. We formed the impression that Eilat was overpriced as a vacation destination as you had to choose either in an expensive hotel or a cheaper but less comfortable private accommodation.
When we arrived at the villa, we did not meet an owner, but a keeper was also a diver and provided us with all the needed information. We passed on diving and decided just to snorkel. The keeper rented us snorkeling gear and suggested a beach with the best reef life. The snorkeling was excellent, the reef was pretty and the fish abundant, but it was no comparison with the Caribbean or the Barrier Reef. The water temperature was rather cold, so to dive in the Red Sea, you need a wet suit. Done with activities, it was time for lunch. Again by a housekeeper’s advice, we took a cab to “the best in town” seafood restaurant that was just half of mile down the road from the beach. We order an assorted seafood dish and found the food and service good but not mind-blowing. After lunch, we returned to our place and relaxed a bit. In the evening we went for a walk along the central seaside promenade that was within walking distance from our villa. Eilat boardwalk was typical of other sea resorts with shopping plazas, seaside eateries and some cheap thrills for vacationers’ amusement. All the beaches were public access and all hotels no matter how fancy they were on the other side of the boardwalk. We walked the promenade back and forth, then returned to our villa in a taxi and called it a day.
Israel – Jerusalem and Yad Vashem.
Next morning we moved to our next destination – Jerusalem. From Eilat to central Israel it was 5-hour drive through the desert and even there were interesting sites on the way – Masada fortress is just one of them – we decided to fly. Two airlines Israir and Arkia provide about a dozen daily flights between Israel main sea resort and Tel Aviv and also few flights directly to Haifa. The fares were very reasonable. The airport terminal was conveniently located right in the city center. It took us minutes to get there. To board a plane in Israel requires to pass strict security- even for a local flight. Sure enough, we were asked about the purpose of our Jordan and Egypt visits, but we had already heard that question before and answered firmly “tourism.” We passed the security and checked in. Though been conveniently located, Eilat airport is small and dumpy. For hundreds of passengers awaiting their flights, there was just a tiny waiting room, one bathroom and a small cafeteria with food of questionable quality. We could not wait until our flight was finally boarded.
The flight itself was pleasant and short. With clear skies, it was Israel at the bird’s eye tour as we took off to the Red Sea, then flew over Negev desert, got a glimpse of the Dead Sea then started descending from the Mediterranean over Tel Aviv city and finally landed at Ben Gurion airport. Outside the domestic terminal was only a couple of lonely taxis, for better ground transportation options we needed to take a shuttle to the main international terminal which was few miles away. There you find a train station, buses, taxis and “sharut” – shared mini busses that bring you to Jerusalem at a fraction of a cab fare. The sharut departs when full, but we did not have to wait too long and also were one of the first passengers to drop when we reached Jerusalem.
The whole transfer took less than an hour. Waldorf Astoria greeted us warmly and as diamond members and offered a complimentary suite upgrade. The suite, however, was not available yet for a couple of hours, so we left the luggage with a concierge and went for lunch. The restaurant that was recommended by the same concierge was located a few blocks from the hotel and served shell seafood, therefore, was not kosher. I don’t recollect what exactly we ordered but remember the food and service were good, and the check was reasonable. After lunch, we returned to Waldorf, our suite was ready. The receptionist personally escorted us to our accommodation and made a quick tour of the hotel lobby and on to the room. The suite was impressive with a spacious living room, a separate bedroom, and a huge bathroom which after two days of no private shower was a blessing! A fruit basket and a bottle of wine were delivered as a compliment. This was probably the best upgrade I ever had and immediately converted me into Hilton fan.
We relaxed in our posh quarters a little and then went out to the city. We had a tour of old Jerusalem booked for tomorrow so for today wanted to take a look at the new city. Elsewhere it may be debatable whether Tel Aviv or Jerusalem is a capital of Jewish state, but in Israel, it is not a question. The president, the prime minister, the Knesset (parliament) and all other government entities are here. We passed the government headquarters on a sharut trip from the airport. The area is heavily guarded for an obvious reason, but tours of Knesset are available though have to be booked in advance. We decided to start our Jerusalem visit with Yad Vashem museum.
To reach it from the center, we took an efficient and convenient tram which is not only the best way of communication through the city but also the place for people watching. We passed through Orthodox Jew quarters, market, the train station, the new residential areas and witnessed how diverse and multi-faced Jerusalem was. We got off at the last stop from where a shuttle bus took us to the museum. Yad Vashem was an incredible experience. Originally we planned a short visit but stayed there till the place was closing, and the caretaker asked politely to move out. The place is unique as combines both an emotional impression of Holocaust tragedy with a precise and detailed account of Nazi crimes against humanity and especially Jews. There are artistic displays of Eastern Europe “shtetles” before the war, the Warsaw ghetto, the “train to nowhere “ that transported Jews to Auschwitz chambers, the “children of Holocaust” memorial, the “memory pound” reflecting in the sky. But also there is a great collection of documents, films, photographs and witness accounts of events before during and after the greatest tragedy of the human history from the moment when Hitler came to power to the creation of State of Israel. We walked back to the tram station as a shuttle bus did not run that late. The mood was grim but not depressing. The museum designed in the way to make people think of preventing this kind of catastrophe ever happen again rather than just shock and depress. It is a heavy emotional experience, but it is the must-see place in Jerusalem.
Israel – Old Jerusalem
To see the old city we booked a private tour. In a hotel, we had an “Israeli” breakfast meaning stupendous but kosher. Have as much smoked salmon and marinated herring with cheese or eggs but no any kind of meat ham or bacon. Oh well. Then we met our guide at the lobby and went on a tour. Even though Jerusalem is 3000 years old the most of the old quarters and the city wall originated in the 15th century under the Arab rule of Suleiman the Magnificent. Waldorf is a short walk from Jaffa Gate that is a popular access point to the old city. We walked through a pedestrian street full of boutiques and eateries and learned that Waldorf was built originally by British in the 1920th when Palestine was under their rule and was considered the best hotel in town until King David was open.
The shopping street soon ended at the little plaza adjacent to the mighty wall from where we turned to the gate and entered the old city. Past the gate, we turned sharp right and first walked through a small but fascinating Armenian quarter. Moving on was a Christian part where all major congregations left their marks in the holy city.
The most devoted of course is the cathedral at the place of Jesus crucifixion. Unfortunately for those who are more interested in history than in religious pilgrimages, there is not a lot left from the crusaders’ era that was preceding Arab rule.
There are, however, quite a few fascinating Roman sites including a whole ancient city street that was recently excavated.
Finally, we reached the Jewish part with the holiest Western Wall.
You pass strict security to get closer then separate with your opposite gender companion to go to men or women part. Men part is more massive and also includes a library with thousands of Torahs and other Orthodox Jews artifacts. The women part is just a wall.
Exploring the Western Wall takes a while; you may even get a divine moment there but watch out for hawkers offering to pray for you for a small donation. As a bonus treat you can walk an underground tunnel under the wall, it’s exciting but wet. After seeing the Western Wall and the Jewish Quarters, we started making our way back through an Arab part. The holiest Muslim shrine – the trademark golden Dome of the Rock mosque on the Temple Mountain is closed for non-Muslims due to security concerns so the rest of visitors should be satisfied with distant photo shots available from multiple vistas of the old city.
The rest of the Muslim Quarter that is open to the public is basically a typical oriental bazaar. You stop there only if you are really wanted to buy and you must bargain. We passed through the bazaar quickly and found ourselves at Jaffa Gate again. At that point, our tour ended. It was possible to climb the old city walls for an exciting, although not a circular walk but we felt like lunch and came back to the hotel area.
The day was Friday the time was afternoon meaning the Jewish Shabbat was about to begin. The pedestrian street that was hustling and bustling in the morning was now much quieter with most of the establishments closing out for a weekend. We ended up having lunch in the same place as yesterday that been non-kosher kept open for a bit longer. Our original plan for the afternoon was Bethlehem and Binsky art-cafe. Both venues were in the Palestine territory. While Israeli Jews are not allowed to go there without a special permit, for foreigners these sites are easy to reach. From Damascus Gate, there are regular buses that get to Bethlehem in half an hour giving there is no “situation” at a checkpoint. Of course, taxis are also available. We sincerely wanted to go there even were about to leave but at the end stayed.
The Old Jerusalem experience was overwhelming besides Marina did not feel well, so we decided another intense trip in a day would be overkill. Instead, we relaxed in our suite. Marina felt better, and at dusk, we returned to the old city to see the Shabbat celebration at the Western Wall. Thousands of Orthodox Jews danced, sang, rejoiced with the holy day arrival. The scene was elating and cheering. The rest of Jerusalem, however, was empty and quiet. We returned to the hotel and decided the best way to end such an intense day would be at the bar. “Vodka Martini? Sorry, no shaking or stirring is allowed on Shabbat.” “Ok fine, double scotch on a rock will do.”
Israel – From Jerusalem to Tel Aviv via Galilee (and on Shabbat)
The next day was Saturday, which meant the Israeli business life was at a standstill. That included all public transportation – local and intercity. In my plan, that was also a day to move from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv. For that occasion, I booked a group tour to Galilee and arranged a tour bus to pick us up at our hotel in Jerusalem and drop us off in Tel Aviv. That would kill two birds in a single shot – a tour and a transfer all for a cost lower than getting a taxi – the only transportation option on Shabbat. The brilliant plan, however, almost failed at the very beginning. The way group tours work in Israel – in the morning the buses go around various towns and collect participants then all meet at an assembly point to mix and match people to different tours. We were told that we won’t change the bus however had to be ready extra early at 5:20 AM. Then iPhone informed us that Israel falls back to standard time that night, so we had an extra hour to sleep and 5:20 AM would not be so bad. We packed, set the alarm, and went to bed to have some rest before an intense day tomorrow. Well, the iPhone was wrong. Israel did not change the time that night; 5:20AM stayed 5:20AM. Just by pure luck, I woke up and looked at the clock on the cable box. It showed 5:11AM. Time on iPhone was 4:11AM. Confused, I called the reception and asked what time it was.
The receptionist said 5:12AM, she also added that a bus driver was in the lobby and if that us who he should pick up we’d better hurry because he was about to leave. With all our travels this was probably the fastest time in which we got up, did morning necessities, rolled down to the reception, checked out and even got a takeout breakfast pack that the hotel prepared for us so nicely. We jumped into the bus, were frown upon a driver and few fellow passengers who boarded even earlier and whom we made wait for a little, but we were happy we made it. The next hour and a half was a passage through residential towns of central Israel where more tourists boarded until we reached an assembly point. Conveniently, it was at a highway rest area that was open 24/7 even on Shabbat, had facilities and a food court where we ate our packed breakfast. We had to wait a bit while all the tourists arrived and where dispatched to appropriate buses. As promised, we stayed at an original coach. Finally, the actual tour started at around 9:00AM. While group tours are much cheaper than private, you have to cope with the fact that a lot of time will be wasted on logistics.
We headed North on Mediterranean highway till Caesarea then turned East to Nazareth. The road was empty on Shabbat morning, and we reached our first tour stop very quickly. The city of biblical fame, Nazareth now is predominantly Arab and therefore pretty much open for business on Saturdays. We visited the main attraction – Church of the Annunciation , which is the largest Catholic Church in the Middle East. Built initially (supposedly) where Mary met God and got pregnant with Jesus, the current building is circa 1969. It is modern but encloses the remains of the structures that were built at this holy place during the preceding periods. It was impressive and moving.
Then we left Nazareth and went further north to Kinnereth lake. Also called the Sea of Galilee it is now mostly a holiday spot with the town of Tiberias as its center. A lot of sites in the area are mentioned in the Old and New Testament (fishes multiplication miracle, Sermon on the Mount, etc.), but Jesus, Saint Peter, and Maria Magdalena do not live there anymore. The churches that were erected on biblical sites are pretty but mostly modern.
We had an OK lunch at a touristy café on the lake shore and then moved to Jordan River Baptism site. Jesus actually was baptized in the farther and not easily reachable part of the river closer to the Dead Sea, but this site is thriving as busloads of pilgrims pay homage here, dress in white robes and deep three times in the holy but somewhat muddy waters to get vetted as proper Christians. The rest of the public just watch.
That was the last stop of the tour. On the way back in the afternoon sun, we observed the beautiful view of the valley with vineyards and even spotted Golan Heights far away on the horizon. In the end, we stopped again at “disassembly” point but were lucky as Tel Aviv was the first stop on a drop off route, so we got off the bus relatively early. It was after the sunset, i.e., Shabbat ended, the city came to life again, and Hilton Tel Aviv lobby was hustling and bustling. Our room was on a high floor with a beautiful view of both the sea and the city.
We had a light dinner in an executive lounge, and then spent time before bed relaxing on the balcony watching the city lights and the Mediterranean surf.
Israel – Haifa and Tzfat
The breakfast at Hilton Tel Aviv lounge was a standard kosher buffet, but the lounge itself was cozy, we liked it better than a busy and noisy morning restaurant at Waldorf Jerusalem. After breakfast, we headed to Tel Aviv Central train station. Israel railroad originated in the 19th century but just recently was modernized and expanded and provided an excellent fast and convenient link for towns along the coast from Ber Sheeva to the northern border with a branch to Jerusalem and the airport. If not completed yet, they were working on the fast track between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem to make the trip between these Israel centers even shorter. The cars are spacious double-deckers with toilets, power outlets, and (spotty) Wi-Fi but as always there is one problem – trains do not run on Friday nights and Saturdays. The ride to Haifa took a little more than an hour. We got off to the station plaza and looked for Carmelit – an underground train to bring us to Bahai Gardens which according to tour books was the chief city attraction. However, we learned that due to a fire in a tunnel, the underground trains were not running (it reopened in 2018). We took a taxi that I think turned out to be a better choice.
As a car was heading up Carmel Mountain, we enjoyed a beautiful view of the harbor and the azure Mediterranean sea. The gardens are the impeccably nourished terraces extending all the way up to the northern slope of the mountain.
Bahai Faith known for its tolerance and peacefulness originated in Persia where its followers were mercilessly persecuted. As a result, they flew and settled in the area that later becomes the center of Haifa.
The Gardens have two parts – Upper and Lower, the Upper part has the best view, but the shrine of the faith creator and the best plant arrangements are in the Lower section. For some reason, you cannot descend all the way up to down unless with a tour that is conducted several times a day. We needed to exit the Upper Garden and walk down the street to the Lower Garden entrance. That area was probably the best in the city with upscale villas occupying the slope and enjoying the magnificent views. Haifa is often called the best port city in the world. I can agree with that – arguably, it was the best city in Israel for me.
Enjoying the Gardens, we spent there more time than initially planned. As a result, we missed a direct train to Carmel by seconds. The next one was only in an hour, so we headed to Akko where we would change for a bus to Tzfat. Modern-day Akko is practically Haifa’s satellite town but the old Crusaders quarters are well preserved and remind the famous Richard the Lionheart expedition to recapture Jerusalem in 1191. The war was a mixed success.
Although Jerusalem stayed with Saladin, the knights were able to gain areas in the north and south and established the second crusader’s kingdom there. Pressed in time, we only had a chance for a glimpse of an old Akko before boarding a bus to our next destination.
Tzfat (Safed) was about 50 min ride. People on the bus were colorful and kind of weird mix of young conscript soldiers and bearded Orthodox Jews, and some of the passengers being both in the same person. The town is the Jewish spiritual center but also hosts an important Israeli army base. Tzfat Jewish quarters are just a short walk up the hill from the bus station. It is a maze of narrow streets with numerous old synagogues and yeshivas. Most of the places are open to visit and represent the different ways of the Jewish religion. The ambiance was quiet and spiritual, and the mood tranquil. The old town is tiny, just a few blocks down and you find yourself in the more modern part.
Tzfat is also a place to buy good souvenirs as many artists found inspiration here and set their shops and studios in the town. An afternoon is an adequate time to explore the city, but if you are not in a rush, I’d recommend staying overnight in one of its cozy B&B’s. At sunset, we took a return bus to Haifa, where we met with my relatives for dinner and returned to Tel Aviv late at night.
Israel – Tel Aviv and Jaffa
Tel Aviv is fascinating, exciting, and enjoyable, but you have to know where to look. Established in the 1909th, it thrived in the 1930th and hosted the university and even the symphony orchestra well before the Jewish State independence. It’s free spirit features from modern night clubs to people watching on the miles long Mediterranean sea promenade are striking alternatives to conservative Jerusalem.
At last, we were done with the rush of travel, the anxiety of meeting train and bus schedules and intense sightseeing plans and dedicated our last full day in Israel to the leisure-paced city exploration. The day started with a bicycle run along the promenade all the way to Jaffa. The city bikes are available for rent all around the tourist’s spots at a nominal fee. For late October, the weather was pleasant but not warm enough for swimming. It was mostly surfers who occupied the beaches by catching the morning waves.
We pedaled along the boardwalk laid between the busy city thoroughfare on one side and wide sandy beaches on the other. The rented bikes were no way racing quality stuff, but 4 miles path was mostly flat, and we reached the end of the promenade at Jaffa in about 30 minutes. Currently merged in a single metropolis, Jaffa was actually a separate port town long before Tel Aviv existed. The clock tower is the old town landmark, around it there is a fortress remains and few old houses. The area was probably lovely after the sunset when numerous seaside cafes and restaurants open, but in the morning it looked empty.
We parked the bikes, walked a bit around the old quarters, and then cycled back. At lunchtime, we visited Azrieli Center – Tel Aviv’s answer to the great skyscraper cities of the world. While locals find it exciting for people who grew up in New York, Chicago, or even LA, the three lonely towers in the base shape of a triangle, circle, and rectangle look mediocre. At the foundation there is an OK shopping mall, the higher floors are occupied by the offices. There is an observation deck at the top level which you have to pay to enter, however, if you have a reservation at a restaurant it is free. We had lunch there with a bird’s eye view on the city then went up to the observation deck. The view was spectacular and probably worth the delicious but expensive meal. The area around the center is the heart of Tel Aviv business life occupied by the country’s major banks, firms, and official residences. It was a striking contrast with a merry and freewheeling atmosphere of the beach district.
From the Azrieli Center, we took a taxi to the famous city market. Of course, the city has supermarkets and department stores but the real Israeli shop here first. We walked along rows and rows offering produce, delicacies, and just about anything else and could not resist tasting and then buying quite a few delightful oriental sweets.
Tel Aviv market is also a fascinating people watching place.
I personally recommend all Israel – Palestine peace skeptics to come here. You’ll see a lot of emotional haggling but in the end on people to people level Arabs and Jews make deals most of the time.
Then we walked a few blocks down a busy street and returned to the promenade. In the evening the area was much more populated than in the morning. People dined, socialized, or just watched the perfect sunset. When the lights went on the clubs opened their doors.
We enjoyed the festive ambiance and returned to the hotel, we had our last dinner at the lounge then went to the room and started packing for a flight back. Sadly, our thrilling Middle East adventure came to an end.