The natural beauty of the North American continent is easy to see. No long and expensive overseas travel, no language barrier, no foreign currency confusion. Just a few hours on a plane – and a breathtaking word is at your footstep. President Theodore Roosevelt established the National Parks authority more than 100 years ago. Its purpose was to protect the country’s most magnificent natural resources from reckless over-development. Nowadays, there are 61 national-level environmental sanctuaries in the USA. This summer, we took a journey across five Western states and visited its five major national parks. It was an experience we will never forget.
Planning and getting there.
Rather than focusing on one or two parks, which would be probably the right thing to do, we decided to sample as many sites as possible. The top five on my list were Yellowstone and Grand Tetons in Wyoming, Rocky Mountain in Colorado, Zion, and Bryce Canyon in Utah. I only had one week, so as much as we wanted to visit Arches and Canyonlands, those were impossible to fit into my time frame.
From the East coast, there are plenty of convenient one-stop flight options on Delta or United but not so much on American and other airlines. There was a good availability to book on miles. All overnight stay places en route except for Canyon Village had big chain hotels that also could be booked on points. That made the trip even more affordable.
We flew on Delta to Bozeman airport in Montana that is the most convenient gateway to Yellowstone Park. Upon arrival, my crew and I rented a car and drove to West Yellowstone – a town located literally at the Park West entrance. I planned to base there for two nights and visit Grand Tetons as well as the Yellowstone south (geyser) part. Then it was one night in Canyon Village inside the park to explore its central and north side. Then we’d return to Bozeman and fly to Denver, where we boarded California Zephyr Amtrak train and travel via Colorado’s Rocky Mountains to Utah’s Salt Lake City. We would see the city, then rent a minivan and head south to Zion park. I planned two nights in Springdale – the nearest town to the park south entrance. Then on the way back to Utah’s capital, we’d visit Bryce Canyon – the last park on the list. We would fly out of Salt Lake City airport.
Day 1 Grand Tetons.
Getting to Yellowstone from New York took almost a day. We left JFK at 11:00 am first to Salt Lake City, then changed to a small plane to Bozeman, where we rented a minivan and drove about 2 hours to our destination. By the time we reached Holiday Inn in West Yellowstone was almost evening. We checked in and went for dinner. Our hotel recommended Bullwinkle’s restaurant. In the high season, this tourist town was overflowed with visitors. There were 40 minutes wait for a table. We decided to wait since we did not see anywhere else to go and were sited much earlier.
The food was worth the wait. Locally caught trout was fantastic, and beef ravioli amazing. All went very well with a local beer which the restaurant had a great choice of. After dinner, we walked back to our hotel.
The hotel was fine and up to its brand standard, although breakfast was a bit inferior. The town of West Yellowstone is very compact and almost exclusively serves visitors to Yellowstone Park. It sits at the Montana state line. Wyoming starts where the town ends, and it is an entrance to the park. However, on our first day, we did not go straight to Yellowstone. Instead, we crossed to Idaho and drove about three hours south to Grand Tetons – Yellowstone sister park. The road led through countless potato farms and finally brought us to Jackson Hole. This lovely western town is an all-seasons resort; a skiing paradise in the winter, and a gateway to Grand Tetons. The entrance to the park was a few miles away from the town. At the gate, we paid $35 per car for a pass. That was good for 7-day access to the park. Later, we upgraded to a one-year unlimited pass. At $80, it was a good deal if you visited at least three parks in 12 months.
Our first stop was Jenny Lake – the park’s focal point and the start to many of its best hikes. It turned out the site was under a grizzly attack. The rangers were busy spotting predators and warning tourists about a possible danger. The tourist, though, looked rather excited than frightened and also tired to spot a bear and take a picture. We decided not to take our chances and headed straight to the lake that was a short walk from the lodge. From the lakeshore, it was our first full view of Teton mountains on the other side of the lake.
There was a great hike around the lake and up the hill to the beautiful waterfall called the Inspiration, but we took a shortcut and crossed the lake on a boat, then climbed to the waterfall.
Upon our return to the base lodge, we learned that grizzlies did invade the grounds. A mama-bear and three cubs were spotted at a meadow near a parking lot and promptly chased away by staff. Thrilled hikers who happened to be around shared the pictures that they were able to snap. Then we drove about a dozen miles on Signal Mountain Road from Jenny Lake to Cotter Bay. It was a small village with a lodge and facilities for boating and swimming, although not that pretty as Jenny Lake. It had, however, an overlook with the best view of all three Teton peaks. Then was about a 2-hour picturesque drive to the north through Grand Tetons and Yellowstone, which were just ten miles apart. In Yellowstone, we pass through Old Faithfull and the geyser valley. We were to explore that area the next day but could not help to slow our drive and to enjoy their marvelous look in the sunsetting colors.
We returned to West Yellowstone in time for dinner. Last night Bullwinkle’s was great, but we wanted to try a new place. By a local advice the only other restaurant of the same level was Madison Crossing. It was even a bit closer to the hotel and also did not disappoint. We had a burger, another kind of trout dish, and a steak. We started getting accustomed to local food – simple but tasteful and always fresh.
Day 2. Yellowstone – Geysers and Canyon.
Yellowstone Park is enormous – I think the largest national park in the US. Roughly speaking, it has two parts – the south I’d call the geysers valley, and the north – the bison and wilderness. Despite being so large, the park is easy to navigate. Depending on where you are coming from, there is access from the West, East, South, and North. The main park road is 8-shape and is appropriately called the Grand Loop Road. The north ring and the south ring connect at the Canyon Village, which is the central park point and has the lodge and all the facilities. Day 2 was to explore the southern part – the geysers. In the morning, we left West Yellowstone Holiday Inn and headed to Old Faithful – the lodge and site of the park’s main Old Faithful geyser and some smaller but no less spectacular geysers around.
The Old Faithful erupts every 90 minutes more or less. If you plan your time, you can call the geyser hotline to find out when the next eruption takes place. However, arrive at least 15 minutes ahead of time as the geyser might change its mind and start earlier. You can wait for the action on the bleachers around, or you can watch it from the terrace of Old Faithfull Inn nearby. Just do not come too close to it – you may get arrested. At our visit, the geyser started almost precisely at 9:40 am as it was promised. The eruption show was terrific. First was a teaser when a small fountain beamed for a short while, then it shot in full force at 150 feet high and streamed unabated for good 6 minutes.
After the main show was over, we walked around the basin and watched other geysers erupting here and there. It was an extraordinary experience. After Old Faithful, we moved to see another natural marvel – Grand Prismatic Spring. This is an amazing colorful hot spring – the largest in the US and the third-largest in the world.
The color is created by millions of bacteria living and thriving in the warm geothermal environment.
The best way to view it is from an outlook which is about a mile of a steep hike up the adjacent mountain. However, we did not feel like climbing and took a perfectly smooth low-level path around the spring.
After Grand Prismatic Spring, we drove to Madison Junction, where we took a short but spectacular side road drive alone Firehole Canyon. By the way, there was one of the very few places in the park where swimming was officially allowed.
We considered taking a dip, but the mountain creek water was cold and a bit muddy, so we decided to move on. We returned to West Yellowstone, which at that point was just a dozen miles away and had lunch back at Bullwinkle’s.
At day time, most of the visitors were out exploring the park, so the town was almost empty, and we were seated right away. In the afternoon, we returned to the park and headed east the middle loop road to Canyon Village lodge. We wanted to stay inside the park for at least one night and booked our next accommodation there.
The park reviews suggested reserving a park stay well in advance, especially in a high season. We traveled in August, so in March, I went online and found a wide-open availability at all park’s accommodations. Friends who traveled with us tried a month later and reserved a room with no trouble at all, although at a slightly higher rate. I guess, the earlier you look, the lower price you get. However, I would hardly call a bargain $250 per night for a room size of a closet with no TV or Wi-Fi. Canyon Village has several accommodation lodges clustered together. We were booked at a central building that had a single reception desk for all village lodges and a small coffee shop. Our friends got a cottage a few hundred feet away but with a larger living space. Overall I think this accommodation was OK for a one-night stay. Alternatively, if you want to stay longer and be inside the park, the better option to my mind is a campground. There are several camps around the park, but at our visit, I noticed all of them were full. I guess for campgrounds, an early reservation is imperative.
We checked in and went to see the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone that was a short and pleasant walk through the forest from the lodge. In the afternoon sunlight, the view from the upper canyon was astonishing. To me, it was more spectacular than the Grand Canyon in Arizona. From the observation point above the cliff, we saw the different color rocks, and the river falls at the bottom.
There was a short trail along the canyon to the Artist Point. We found the best view there, but we weren’t alone – the site was very crowded. Visit the canyon concluded another exciting day at the parks. We returned to the village and went to the food court, which was in a separate building. Inside the park, dining choices are limited. The food court was crowded since it was the only place to eat with a few fast food options and one a la cart restaurant with an hour-long waitlist. We ended up squeezing in a bar table and ordering some drinks and appetizers. It was also a spot where the internet somewhat worked. Elsewhere the park was pretty much a no-signal zone. After the super-light but not super-cheap dinner, we returned to the lodge and called it a day.
Day 3. Yellowstone – Wildlife.
The last day in Yellowstone was dedicated to wildlife watching. We left the lodge and headed south along the Yellowstone River drive to Hayden Valley. Just a few miles on the road, we met bison. Been herbivores, the enormous creatures grazed on the grass and seemed paid no attention to dozen of cars that stopped and watched them.
The bravest animals even wandered around a parking lot checking humans guests. I did not see any vehicle been damaged or a person hurt. We stepped out of our car and watched the bison action. In a short while, we recognized patriarchs, mothers with cubs, and young adults. Each group kept its line of behavior. It was a fascinating show! Then we moved to Yellowstone lake.
On the way, we stopped at Mud Volcano – fascinating but “sulphury,” and at an unofficial “grizzly overlook.” Supposedly the outlook was the best place to spot bears. There were few people equipped with GPS, binoculars, and other fancy gear. Naturally, the creatures do not announce their visits and may show up whenever they like (or do not show up at all). We hung around a bit but did not see any grizzlies. That was OK.
We moved on. We reached the lake, stopped at the Natural Bridge, and drove a little along the water edge. The road eventually led to the East Gate exit, but we needed the north, so we turned back. On the return, we again passed the volcano and the bison. Then on the road were astonishing views of Dunraven Pass and Mount Washburn.
At Roosevelt Lodge junction, we could turn right to Lamar Valley to try to spot wolves, but these predators are usually out in the morning or at night, and there is a little chance to see them during the day. We skipped it. We saw plenty of other wildlife, though. From eagles to foxes – the place is incredibly fauna diverse. Unfortunately, it was time to leave Yellowstone and move to our next destination. We exited the park through the North gate and crossed into Montana. About 100 miles drive through Montana farms lead us to Bozeman, where we stopped for lunch.
Bozeman looked and felt like a boomtown from a western movie. Thanks to the proximity to Yellowstone and an expanding regional airport, the city grew significantly in the past years. The tourists bring money and spend them too, so the local businesses are thriving. We had lunch at Ted’s Montana Grill in the downtown. The restaurant is a part of a chain that is owned by the media mogul Ted Turner. His farms supply the bison and beef meat. The chain restaurants are located in the West as well as Georgia, Massachusetts, and even New York City, but here in Bozeman, it feels the most authentic.
We had a gumbo soup, a burger, and a bison steak.
The restaurant is adjacent to a fancy hotel and caters mostly to business clientele; therefore, the service is quick and attentive. After lunch, we headed to the airport, returned the car, and flew United to Denver. By the time we landed in Colorado, it was late evening. A limo that was waiting by an arrival terminal and brought us to a hotel. Another intense day was over, a ride through Colorado Rockies was ahead.
Day 4. Rocky Mountains – From Denver to Salt Lake City on Amtrak train.
Radisson Denver bills itself as a “centrally located” hotel but in reality, is located in an odd neighborhood among furniture warehouses and other weird industrial objects. Nevertheless, it was almost booked. I guess there were good reasons to stay there. As for us, we just needed a place to be overnight. The hotel was clean, rooms reasonably comfortable, the rate much less compared to downtown – and that was all that mattered. Hotel continental breakfast was not appealing, but we did not care. Since we booked a sleeper accommodation on California Zephyr train, the meals were included in the fare, and we planned a breakfast on board. The train originated in Chicago a day before and was scheduled to arrive Denver at 8:00 am. The limo driver insisted on a pick up at 6:45 am, citing a traffic possibility. However, there was no traffic, and the ride took only 15 minutes. We arrived much earlier than needed and learned that the train was one hour late. We had time to explore the station and the vicinity.
The old Union Pacific terminal was beautifully restored. Besides the Amtrak ticket office, it hosts cafes, restaurants, bookshops, souvenir stands, and even a boutique hotel.
The passenger waiting room is nicely decorated with the old days’ train travel glory artifacts. It is right in downtown Denver and an area around features, even more, shopping, food and drink establishments, a cute little park, and other lovely places to hang out.
Most of the people at the station were not passengers but rather locals passing by and stopping for a morning latte or a sandwich.
As for its officially primary purpose, it appeared the station served almost exclusively long-distance Amtrak trains. It was a workday morning, but I did not see much of suburban commuters. Finally, the California Zephyr arrived.
The station is a terminal, i.e., the trains pull in and out and not passing by. We joined the waiting to get onboard.
There were two separate lines for coach and sleeper passengers. We had to wait till incoming riders disembarked, and the staff turned around the cabins, then the conductor allowed us in.
The train was a double-decker. We got good accommodation on the upper deck with a restaurant car next to us and a glass ceiling observation lounge next to it. Even though it was a day trip, I booked a private roomette.
The lower bed converted into two chairs facing each other. The upper bed we used to store the luggage. If we needed two beds, we would have to check luggage as there was no space for bags in a cabin.
The conductor announced “all aboard,” and the train departed. We headed to the restaurant and finally had our breakfast. Omelets were available as well as a choice of bread, cereals, and yogurts.
Meals are included in any sleeper ticket but not drinks (alcoholic or not). Those are offered to purchase.
The restaurant is also open to coach passengers, although they have to pay for meals.
By the time we finished breakfast, the train had passed ugly areas of industrial Denver and entered the Rocky Mountains. The track mostly accompanies Interstate 70, which links famous Colorado ski resorts. At Winter Park, which was the train first stop, you can ski right off the station platform.
The place is trendy among smart people who skip a hassle of driving to the slopes (see my Aspen post). After Winter Park, the road entered the amazing cascade of tunnels, gorges, small canyons, and waterfalls.
This part of the journey is one of the most beautiful train rides in America. We followed the Colorado River until Glenwood Springs, which was about 4 hours from Denver. During that stop, we could get off the train and stretch legs a little. For the next three hours, the view was pretty but not that astonishing as the Rockies landscape. It was time for another Amtrak meal, lunch this time. Even not that hungry, we went to a restaurant.
Lunch was OK – a soup and a salad that probably won’t glam a fancy city eatery but certainly was adequate for a train.
At around quarter past five, we arrived at Grand Junction. It was another long stop, and a part of a crew changed here. The local station was in a dilapidated state. The old passenger pavilion demised to the point it was fenced off from the public with no signs of any repair or restoration going on.
Outside was a small shop, basically a covered stand that offered a basic convenient store assortment – cigarettes, newspapers, packaged pastries, bottled drinks, some fruits. Nevertheless, it was a line. Passengers, especially from a coach-class, used the opportunity to stack up for the rest of the journey. No smoking was allowed on board Amtrak. For smokers, the stop was a rare chance for a break. Even though pot is legal in Colorado, none was offered because passenger stations are a federal domain. I went back on board. As the train moved on I thought of how mismanaged Amtrak was. There is a demand for rail travel in America. I saw “real” travelers in a coach who had their reasons to choose a train over planes or cars.
Passengers in sleeper cars were mostly tourists, here for a beautiful scenic ride. The price of a sleeper ticket from Denver to Salt Lake City was under $200, which was an undervalue. The price on a whole route from Chicago to San Francisco that takes three days and two nights starting from $496. Yes, the cabins were a bit crampy, and the service was not always the first class, but for the value, we were getting, it was still a bargain. If you check the Amtrak site, the train is booked fast and well in advance. Proper management has to boost marketing and add a second daily departure, at least in a high season. Having four trains per day (two eastbound and two westbound) will justify decent shops at intermediate stations and provide funds for much-needed repairs. The price of the ticket can definitely go up, so if you consider this trip – do not delay.
At 6:00pm we were invited for dinner.
The choice was a steak, a crab cake, or a pasta.
There was also the most expensive “surf and turf” option, i.e., a steak and a crab cake. Since the meals were free, I chose “surf and turf.” While a crab cake was subpar, a steak was decent.
After dessert, we went to the observation car. By that time, the train crossed to Utah. The landscape changed – the semi-desert replaced the woods and mountains of Colorado.
We watched an astonishing sunset – the evening sunlight painted the massive rock formations into a unique crimson color. At around 9 pm, it became dark.The train rolled into Provo – the last station before Salt Lake. The passengers who stayed on the train overnight retired in their cabins, we looked forward to the disembarkation.
Around midnight (an hour late), the train finally arrived at Salt Lake City station. Unlike in Denver, there was no fancy terminal there. Amtrak abandoned the old Union Pacific depot in the 1990th and moved to more practical Intermoda Hub few blocks closer to downtown. Luckily, the historic building was not demolished; now it clusters offices, restaurants, aspiring musician studios, and unsurprisingly is called The Depot.
From the train, it was a short walk to a passenger pickup lot where a limo was waiting to bring us to the hotel. Double Tree suites were a short drive away. Another exciting but intense day was over.
Day 5. From Salt Lake City to Zion National Park
Double Tree Salt Lake City was probably our best hotel on the trip. No diamond member upgrade, but all rooms were suites with a large living room and a separate bedroom.
No executive lounge either – breakfast was served in the main restaurant. Right after breakfast, we went out to explore the city. The hotel was centrally located, but getting to the Temple square – the historical city center – required about a 30-minute walk. As an alternative we took a tram called TRAX that stopped just few blocked from the hotel. Salt Lake got an excellent public transportation system for the 2002 Olympics.
The tram links the city with the airport, and the rides within the downtown are free of charge. Salt Lake City center is very Mormon. The followers of Joseph Smith‘s religion established this city and, eventually, the whole state in 1850th and still rule it.
The Temple dominates the city skyline but is closed to outside visitors and even regular Mormons. However, the area around is very much open and welcoming. The immaculate visitor center displays interesting historical artifacts. It also educates the guests of the fundamentals of the Mormon religion.
All around you find smiling ladies in hats and straight cut dresses that are willing to answer questions about the faith.
Outside on the grounds, there is a beautiful park, a church with an organ playing regularly, few carefully restored original buildings, and several monuments of prominent Mormon leaders.
Even though we could not see the Temple inside, we had an astonishing view of it from the adjacent ceremonial building.
There on the top floor was a restaurant when we had lunch after the city excursion. The service was friendly, although Mormon cuisine is a little conservative.
They do not use certain products. Needless to say, hard liquor is not offered in any of Mormon establishments.
After lunch, we picked up a car and drove south to Springdale. Driving 5 hours through the desert was a bit monotonous. We were happy when we eventually arrived at Hampton Inn in a lovely village at the gate of Zion National park. We took a little rest after a long road and finished the day at Bit & Spur Restaurant and Saloon.
The hearty Tex-Mex dinner was excellent. Guacamole salad, homemade nachos, and chicken fajita were fresh and tasty. Even though they do not flash booze in Utah – all you have to do is ask.
Good tequila accompanied our dinner nicely. After dinner, we returned to our hotel that was just across the street. Zion National Park was waiting for us to be discovered tomorrow.
Day 6. Zion National Park.
Hampton Inn Springdale was a new and comfortable hotel in the middle of the village. We did not get a suite upgrade, I think all the rooms were just standard, but besides the entrance, there was a designated parking space for Hilton Diamond members.
I do not know, however, how the rule is enforced. On arrival, we found a spot and parked there. The next day all “elite” spots were occupied, so we parked at a regular place. The hotel has an outdoor pool, jacuzzi and a patio- nice amenities and a place to relax after an intense day of hiking.
The town of Springdale is one street in a narrow valley flanked with majestic mountains from both sides.
The hotels, restaurants, and other tourist establishments are stretching along the way. The road runs through the village and leads to the park south entrance. You can arrive and forget about a car for the duration of your whole stay. There is a village shuttle stopping at main points and terminating at the visitor center where you can switch to the similar park shuttle that continues one through the park. If you insist on during, in the summer, you can only drive till Zion lodge. The further road is closed to private traffic, and the only option is a shuttle. We parked on the village side before the gates. There was enough parking space in the village. It was, however, paid – $20 per car per day. We walked a short distance to the visitor center. There we joined the line to the shuttle that looked huge but moved fast. In the visitor center, you can rent water shoes, walking canes, and insulated overalls. Those are imperative if you want to explore the canyon river in depth.
It took about 20 minutes to get to the shuttle and then another 40 minutes to reach the Narrows where the park road ends. We decided to start from the furthest point and make our way back. Zion is easy to navigate. The park is a canyon with a scenic drive at the bottom. The river runs in parallel with the road. The shuttle makes several stops along the route, which are the starting points of the hiking trails. The hikes vary from very easy to challenging, and each tourist can choose what suits him/her the best. From the shuttle last stop, there is an easy but spectacular riverside walk to the Narrows.
The river runs through the canyon, and you can walk either a little bit or for miles if you are here for a thrill and equipped appropriately. The river bottom is rocky, and it is knee-deep in some places. The water is cold even in the summer. We walked about a quarter of a mile, then returned to the shuttle stop and moved to the next must-see place – the Emerald pools. It was another easy but breathtaking hike from the Zion Lodge stop. There was a cascade of waterfalls, pools, and monolith cairns leading to a large pond where you could swim or at least take a dip in a crystal clear but cold water. Be prepared to get wet from myriads of drops generated by mighty falls. If you follow the trail all the way, you could get to the Grotto, but unfortunately, that part of the road was closed during our visit.
We returned to the lodge and boarded the shuttle to Court of The Patriarchs stop, which was our last hike in the park. The overlook point was a short climb from the shuttle stop. From there, it was the astonishing view on the canyon’s three cliffs called Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob accordingly.
We returned to the village and had a well-deserved lunch at Whiptail Grill. The food was good, although a bit typical. The rest of the day, we indulged ourselves at the hotel’s pool and jacuzzi. We had dinner at the same Bit & Spur as a night before. The hostess honored us as returning customers and ensured we got the best service possible.
We had a burrito and a BBQ baby rack. All went exceptionally well with the rest of our tequila. Then we called it a day.
Day 7. Bryce Canyon and back to Salt Lake City.
Sadly, that was our last full day of the trip. We left Springdale and headed to the final national park on our list – Bryce Canyon.
We took a breathtaking Zion-Mount Carmel highway. It is a spectacular curvy road through the Zion canyon, then via a tunnel that is so narrow that large vehicles need to make a reservation to pass. The opposite traffic has to be held off in order anything wider than a minivan can drive through. Luckily we did not get into much delay, and in about an hour and a half reached our destination.
Bryce Canyon was smaller than the other that we visited, but it was probably the most beautiful. The main observation point is called Amphitheater – the astonishing natural display of crimson-colored spire-shaped rock formations.
From the park lodge, the Rim Trail winds through the stands of pine trees until it reaches the canyon and reveals a fantastic panorama of rocks in the form of goblins, towers, and fins. The canyon is best seen at a sunrise or a sunset, but even though we were there around noon, it still looked fantastic.
So that was it – we got back to Interstate 15 and drove about 4 hours north back to Salt Lake. We reached the city in the early evening. Our flight out was much later at night, so we had time to explore Utah’s capital a bit more. This time we wanted to see a part that was not Mormon and made a stop at the Broadway area.
There was a great sunset view of the mountains surrounding the plateau on which a city was built from three sides (the fourth side was the Salt Lake). We walked around the neighborhood. It was free-wheeling and funky, and at the high contrast to the strict conservative downtown. We were surprised how diverse and open-minded Salt Lake City was. Just to mention – at a time of our visit, The Book of Mormon musical was a sold-out hit at the city’s best Eccles Theater. Our last dinner was at Current Fish & Oyster – the hip seafood fusion restaurant in Central City district between downtown and the University of Utah.
Even though Salt Lake City is a thousand miles from a sea, the innovative honed dishes prepared by Chef Alan Brines made feel like you are in San Francisco or New Orleans.
After dinner, we headed to the airport, returned the car, and boarded our red-eye flight to New York. What a great trip we had!
