Bustling and tranquil, mystique and transparent, thrilling and dramatic, chaotic, and rough on edges but never dull – this exciting place is very close to home and often called the best-kept travel secret in North America. We visited Mexico City for the particular time of the New Year celebration that made the trip even more fun
Planning and Getting there.
All major full service and discount airlines serve Mexico City (and other large Mexican cities). The accommodation choices are also plenty from big luxury properties to boutique and budget, so planning a trip there was almost a no brainer. We traveled over a long New Year weekend and tried to optimize our time. We booked a Delta evening flight that would arrive around midnight and returned on red-eye. That gave us three full days in Mexico. As HHonors diamond, we booked Hilton La Reforma at a very central location. A word of caution – while no particular threats exist to tourists, mind a general safety. Major business hotels are located in the city safe areas, but if you plan to stay in a small hotel or an Airbnb checking the surroundings is always a good idea. Getting from the airport to a hotel is also easy. No need to pre-arrange a transfer. At an arrival hall just come to a well-marked taxi booth, pre-pay and get you car in minutes. The fare to the city center is about $15 plus a tip a driver if you wish. Our flight arrived on time; the line at the immigration did not take long; the cab ride to the hotel was only about 30 minutes long. The check-in was also quick; we got a room upgrade and access to an executive lounge but not a suite. It was OK though– the room was clean and large, on the high floor with a nice view. We unpacked and rested before our intense program started the next day.
Mexico City – from Aztecs to Trotsky
We had breakfast at the hotel restaurant, then went to the lobby to meet our guide. Hilton Mexico City is also called Hilton La Reforma since it is situated near one of the main city thoroughfare. The location was excellent but according to guide not logical to start the tour if we want to keep a historical perspective. We went a few blocks along the beautiful park bypassing an imposing marble monument and an opera house that the guide said he would talk about later. The tour started at Zocalo (The Constitution Place) where Mexico City originated centuries ago as Aztec’s capital and still has remains of the ancient settlement.
When Spaniards conquered this land in the 16th Century, they established their colonial capital at the same place. One of the first buildings was the cathedral that still dominates the area. Zocalo is also one of the largest squares in the city and the site of happenings and people watching. We walked around the ruins and the cathedral and got amused looking at locals trying skating at the artificial ice rink erected for the holidays in the center of the square.
Then we moved further downtown to Palacio National – a complex of official buildings often (and mistakenly) referred to as the President Palace.
If you watched the movie Frida – the palace court is where the young Frida met Diego Rivera, and their turbulent relationship started. It was a real event. Diego Rivera murals are still there and describe the country rich history from indigenous times through the colonial era to the independence war and the ensuing struggle for social reforms.
Rivera’s art may be controversial but sincere, vivid, and very emotional. It is spiritually close to the city feel itself. His works are also extensive and plenty. There you can also see Siqueiros paintings – Rivera’s rival and contemporary.
Besides the murals, the complex has an impressive history as it features the place of the fist Mexican parliament and the old presidential residence.
We walked from Palacio National back to Zocalo via a busy pedestrian street, checking out boutique shops and noting many good dining options.
Mexico City center is outrageously and delightfully eclectic. What city plan? It was built wherever space was available, for how much money a realtor had and by whoever the architect was in town at that time. The result was a crazy and fascinating mix of Old colonial, Baroque, Art Deco, and modern styles neighboring each other on the same busy downtown streets. We saw the picture-perfect building that looks like an Opera house but in fact, is an art museum.
The downtown architectural highlight is rightfully called The Palacio De Bellas Artes. There we saw more of Diego Rivera murals. The most famous is of course “El hombre en la encrusijada (Man at the Crossroads)” featuring Trotsky, Lenin, Karl Marx, and other revolutionaries.
This mural was originally commissioned for New York’s Rockefeller Center in 1933, scandalously rejected and demolished only to be re-created by the master in his native Mexico City a year after. We walked around the expositions then went out and took a look at another impressive Art Deco building just across the street– Correo Mayor (The Main Post Office), probably the most beautiful Post Office in the world.
It is a functioning establishment, so make sure you are there at the business hours. If the second floor is open, do go there by a fantastically decorative stairwell.
As much as we were impressed by the historical city center, we had to eat. We took an Uber to Coyoacan. Now, this is an upscale middle-class Mexico City neighborhood, but back at the beginning of the 20th Century, it was a separate town and a home of Frida Kahlo’s family. First, we had a taco lunch at a local eatery where for 10 dollars, three people can get a very satisfying meal. Then we visited the Trotsky house – the last refuge of the fugitive Russian revolutionary and Stalin’s nemesis.
In the 1930th when no other country would host him, Rivera and Khalo petitioned the Mexican government and secured an invitation for Trotsky to live here. However, Stalin’s agents found and eventually assassinated him here. His tomb is in the house courtyard. His second wife with whom he emigrated here and who survived him by 20 years was also buried beside him.
The house was inherited by Trotsky’s grandson Seva Volkov who devoted his life to the grandfather memory preservation. Thanks to Seva’s effort, the house became an interesting museum and is frequently visited by Russian tourists and history fans. From Trotsky residence, it was just a few blocks walk to Frida Khalo’s place. That’s the house where she was born, created a big part of her painting, and died.
Unlike Trotsky, this museum is much more visited thanks to the famous Hollywood movie fame. To ensure an entrance, book your tickets online and well in advance. Also keep in mind no photos are allowed and the rule is strictly enforced. The building features the artist’s studio and some of her magnificent paintings.
The exposition tells the dramatic and tragic story of her bright but short life, the childhood, the terrible accident that left her in pain to the end of her days, meeting Diego, her obsession with motherhood which she could never experience and with the socialist ideas.
The experience of the visit was very emotional. After all we needed a drink. We walked around the town park that was bustling with street performers and local vendors. The neighborhood felt safe and warm. We stopped at another “hole in the wall” style cafe then took an Uber to the hotel to have a well-deserved rest. The day was so intense; we did not feel like going out for dinner. Luckily the executive lounge served a nice choice of chef oeuvres.
Teotihuacan – the air and the land.
If you believe that you must try everything at least once in a lifetime, the ancient site Teotihuacan is the place to experience a hot balloon flight. The best is to fly over the pyramids at the sunrise then descend and explore the area on foot. Teotihuacan is about an hour drive from Mexico City. We left at around 5 am to secure the best flight time. We drove through the dark capital and then on the highway until we reached the balloon ride launching site. Despite the super early hour, the place was busy. Volare is practically the only established and reputable company that operates the business, and the procedure is very well organized. Once arrived, you check-in and have a coffee in a lounge while waiting for your name to be called. The standard ride option is a shared eight people gondola; the upgrade is balloon for two. The shared ride is perfectly fine. It is large enough, has space for everyone, and gives a chance to socialize and exchange the impressions with fellow flyers. The place operates until there are customers. By the time we finished our flight, some guests were still arriving but riding in the full daylight is not that spectacular as at dawn.
Flying over Teotihuacan on the hot air balloon is a thrilling and fantastic experience, especially if it is your first time. The initial fear turned into a fun fast as we flew in the open air over the astonishing site that was becoming visible in the early morning sun rays. We saw more and more balloons launching and very soon were a part of a colorful flying fleet slowly proceeding above the ancient pyramids.
We enjoyed every minute of the experience and took multiple photos. The flight lasted about an hour. Then the pilot descended and threw a rope that was caught by his teammates on the ground. We landed safely; a minibus brought us back to the lounge. An excellent tasty breakfast was served; we even received the flight accomplishment certificates to keep a memory of this exciting adventure. The company also offered a glass of free champagne, but that would be served when all guests arrived, which meant a long wait. We hang up just a bit longer, finished the breakfast, found our driver, and asked to bring us to the site entrance to continue exploring Teotihuacan on foot.
We arrived at the entrance just by the site opening. The walk from the ticket office to the actual site was less than half of a mile along the row of souvenir shops. Most of the vendor booths were still closed, so we reached the entrance unabated. The place was magnificent. It was large but easy to navigate since Aztecs built their ancient capital straight and proportional. The well-preserved pyramids seem huge but very accessible for everyone in a reasonably good physical shape.
First, we climbed the main Pyramid of the Sun. The view from the top enabled your imagination to visualize 150,000 people city that flourished here a thousand years ago. Then we walked Avenida of Dead – the main city thoroughfare to the Pyramid of the Moon on the opposite side of the complex. We saw magnificent ruins of many prominent houses and palaces, some still showing elaborate bas-reliefs and frescoes.
The Moon pyramid might be smaller than the Sun but felt more challenging to climb. From its top enjoyed another terrific view of the site. By that time, the sun was at its peak, and the early morning chill turned into the midday heat. We explored the ruins a bit more and headed back to the exit, found our driver, and returned to the hotel.
The New Year – Mexico style.
Back to the city, we walked to Zocalo for lunch at a very good restaurant with an excellent choice of meats, fish, and traditional Mexican dishes.
Unfortunately, somehow I misplaced the card with its name but it can be easily found as it is the next door to Pineda Covalin – the famous Mexican designer boutique. On the return, we again passed the marble colonnade at the park in front of Hilton. That turned out to be a monument in honor of Benito Juarez – the heroic Mexican leader at the beginning of 20th Century who ended the bloody civil war and established the democratic rule.
It was the New Year eve. We had plenty of time to relax before the dinner at the restaurant on the top of Torre Latinoamericana – one of the city tallest skyscrapers.
We went to the Hilton spa that was excellent – large, clean, and had a jacuzzi, a pool, a sauna, and a steam room. The variety of massages was offered at reasonable prices. At around 10 pm we dressed up and headed to the restaurant. Yes, we walked at night through the center of Mexico City. Torre Latinoamericana was just a few blocks down Avenida Juarez; there was a lot of people and security. We felt safe and reached the restaurant in less than 20 minutes. We got a lovely table for two at the window with a great view of the lit city. The food, however, was a bit of a disappointment – buffet style and bland.
On a regular day, you definitely could find better dining options in Mexico City, but that time it was all about an ambiance. At midnight we saw fireworks all around the downtown with the main festivity at Paseo de la Reforma. There was an open concert there, but we did not venture to visit. We experienced the local tradition – las doce uvas de la suerte (the twelve grapes). They must be eaten one by one during the countdown for the New Year to be healthy and prosperous. We did our best. Then the band arrived and the guests – mostly local well to do Mexicans, started dancing. We people watched for a bit and then left. And yes – we walked back to the hotel as well. Past midnight the downtown was even more crowded. All restaurants, cafes, and bars were open and full of people. The music played everywhere. Total strangers kissed each other – it was a genuine celebration of joy, happiness, and hope for a better future.
Puebla and going home.
Mexico City is grand, and could takes days and week to be fully explored, but we wanted to take a look at Mexico outside the capital. On our last day of the trip, we visited the colonial Puebla about 100 miles South East of the city. To get there, I rented a car. We arrived at Avis office in downtown and found it closed. It was the New Year morning, and even though it was supposed to be open, we realized things in Mexico might go not as planned. We thought our adventure trip could end before even started, but to Avis credit, the agent returned shortly and processed our car rental in a matter of minutes. Soon we were on the road first through the capital and then on the highway to Mexico second colonial city. Puebla now is the large industrial center and the home of prestigious universities. The locals joke that it is the safest place in Mexico since many drug lord children study here in elite private schools. But it’s colorful and well preserved old colonial center makes it so exciting to see. The legend said that the Spanish conquistador and the first governor of Mexico Herman Cortes barely escaped the assassination by Aztecs during La Noche Triste attack. He then pledged to build 365 churches there – one for each day of the year. Even though he did not fulfill his pledge, there are a lot of churches in Puebla. The 16th-century cathedral is one of the most beautiful catholic temples in the world and rivals Notre Dame and maybe even St. Peter’s.
Another gem is La Capilla de la Virgen del Rosario – a baroque masterpiece in the cathedral of Santo Domingo.
Besides the churches, there is a large and well preserved colonial downtown with bright, colorful buildings hosting restaurants, boutique hotels, shops, and art galleries.
It was a holiday, and the city streets were full of people. The street trade was bustling; it was the real Mexico we wanted to see.
Especially fascinating was Barrio del Artisto (the Artist Quarter) – a cluster of interesting local art shops. For lunch and dinner, there was a great choice of places from simple Mexican fare to fancy dishes. We ate at Casona de la China Poblana. It is a unique restaurant that serves chicken under different sauces mole – walnut, cashew, pine, etc. — highly recommended!
After lunch, we just spent time walking the charming colonial streets and experiencing the local beat. The feel was festive and relaxed. As the time got closer to the dusk, the public filled the numerous coffee shops to enjoy a cup of aromatic coffee or chocolate and indulge themselves with heavenly delicious Mexican sweets. At dark, we headed back to Mexico City and straight to the airport. Our flight was a red-eye, we had many hours before the departure and counted on a leisure pace ride and plenty of time to kill at the terminal lounge. What we did not expect was huge traffic. Thousands were returning home as the holidays ended. It took us more than 4 hours to cover 100 miles distance. Still, we arrived at the airport well before the take-off. At the terminal, we had a choice to stay at Aeromexico or Amex Centurion lounge. We chose Centurion. The experience was enjoyable. The lounge was large, clean, and quiet with a lot of cozy private areas to relax before the flight. The most excellent part was a service, the food was offered a la carte from the menu, and the attendant brought it to your place. There was a choice of complimentary essential dishes, but for a little extra we order a real dinner. All drinks – alcoholic and non-alcoholic were free. We finished the dinner and headed to the gate, saying goodbye to this fabulous city before flying back to New York.
